save our forests!

[Jon Page]

Good point Don, 
So then it comes down to: How hard do you hit it?
I give the string a light tap with the 'driving unit' at 45 degrees(+/-)
and 1/8"+ or so beyond the bridge pin.
A secondary fall of the hammer/percussive devise under 
its own weight insures no further persuasions are necessary.

And when I'm really aggitated  . . .

I have not seen the for need this treatment more than once in a few years.
Although rental piano seem to disqualify my assessment.
Jon Page
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
At 09:23 PM 4/20/98 -0600, you wrote:
>Hi All,
>
>The reason for using a hammer shank is very simple and nothing to do with
>the strings. The wood on the bridge is much harder than a hammer shank.
>>Don Rose, B.Mus., A.M.U.S., A.MUS., R.M.T., R.P.T.

>At 10:22 PM 4/20/98 -0400, you wrote:
>>If you live near a boat yard, then they will provide you with
>>a copper nail. Once the tip is filed, it makes a non-marring punch.
>>Use discretely.
>>Jon Page>>PS  Tech Tip  from John McDonald, RPT; Prov. Chapt.

>>At 09:44 PM 4/20/98 EDT, you wrote:
>>>In a message dated 98-04-18 13:26:15 EDT, you write:
>>> Hi all,

>>> Like many of you, I use an upright hammer shank to tap down strings. Of
>>> course they eventually split. Today I decided to try a new idea. I
placed a
>>> soda straw over the ends of the hammer shank. A new *tool* that lasts much
>>> longer!>>> Regards,
>>> Don Rose, B.Mus., A.M.U.S., A.MUS., R.M.T., R.P.T.