Guy, I guess I need to ask another question. Is the tuning pin sufficiently tight? As long as the pin is tight and is not touching anything else, we should be able to set it, though you may need that tip with the paper thin sides. I have been experimenting with a new technique which I call Bump And Rebound. To use it, I pull the pin so that the pitch is somewhat above the final spot. Then, with stiff fingers and hand, I gently slap the hammer handle in a counter-clockwise direction. With each slap, I withdraw my hand quickly so that the pin can some to its own resting place. The theory is that if the pin and string find their own place of stability, the pin torsion and bend and the string equalization will be accurate and the string will stay well in tune. It works great for me. Ken Burton "Doctor Piano" Calgary Alberta On Sat, 3 Jan 1998, Guy, Karen, and Tor Nichols wrote: > > At 05:23 AM 1/1/98 -0700, you wrote: > > > > Guy, > > > > Was this piano a Type A, B or C? > > Type B is the one > >where the pitch moves as soon as you begin to exert pressure on the pin, > >before it moves at all in the pinblock. > > Type B would best describe that piano, Ken. Likely because the last person > didn't have a tuning tip that was thin as paper, either. Makes it tough to > do any real setting, 'cause the neighbor pin is "not at rest", and the > pressure bar is almost touching the lower edge, etc. etc. As soon as the > pin is relieved of the friction against these other non-block surfaces, > away it goes! > > Regards, > Guy >
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