Interesting topic

[Robert Goodale]

John J. Kowalski wrote:
> 
> I had always been allerted that you should never tap or hammer-in loose pins.
> There were three proper ways to fix the problem: next or over-sized tuning
> pin, metal sleeve, or pin block restorer.  I would love to see comments and
> debate on this issue, as I would gain from all your various experiences and
> situations.  Thanks.

I have absolutely no problem with tapping in pins whatsoever. Mind, we
are talking about old pianos here, to young kids. Most of the time I can
gain at least some, if not significant pin friction. The only thing one
must be aware of, however, is that if the coil becomes pinched in the
plate hole it could break a string- care must be taken not to go too
deep. If  tapping is clearly not going to cut it then I elect to try a
larger pin size. Unless the pin block is absolutely DOA, the above to
methods are virtually guaranteed to work. If multiple pins are getting
loose, however, then obviously there is a much bigger problem here.

I personally don't like inserting sleeves. I've never been happy with
the feel of the pin afterward, and it takes just as much effort to
replace the pin once it is out anyway- so why not just replace it???. I
have on very rare occasions tightened pins with a bit of epoxy. This is
not my first choice, but these were only in very extraordinary
circumstances.

As far as liquid pin tightener goes, I say no, no, no, no, no, no. (Did
I say no?)
I have never applied this stuff to a piano which gave lasting results,
and I have serviced many-a-piano in which someone else applied it and it
only seemed to make things worse in the long run. This, in addition to
stains on the plate, rusted pin coils and likewise breaking strings,
etc.  I say, if the block has gotten to the point where you have to dump
liquid goo into it then it's time for restringing, a new
block/rebuilding, or a trip out to the ol' wood pile.

Just one tech's opinion

Rob Goodale, RPT