Sticky keys

[Newton Hunt]

The most sensitive test I know is to move the key up and down at the
back end of the key.  If sluggishness occurs you will feel it there.

Before enbarking on any other course I recommend polishing the key pins
with "Flitz" which is a superior metal polish.  After polishing the
pins, front and center, lubricate them with a powdered teflon lubrican
call "Slide All", available from hardware stores and made by Bordons.

Lubricate the bushings well and replace the keys, one at a time, and
make each one fit properly.

There are three places sluggishness can occur;
    1    Is the front rail bushing.  Check that the front rail pin is
parrallel to the sides of the keys.  Check that the bushings go no
further into the key than 3/16" or 1/4".  If they go further you will
need to cut out the excess with a hobby knife with a chisel pointed
blade.  Using key easing pliers gently crush the wood under the bushing
to VERY slightly enlarge the opening.  There should be about .3mm to
.5mm side play at this point.

    2    The center rail bushings need also to be check for free movemnt
of about .3mm.

    3    The balance pin hole at the bottom of the key should allow the
key to fall back into it's rest position slowly but assuradly.  Easing
is done with a flatten tapered tool designed for the purpose.

Finally recheck all points again.  Over doing easing is very distructive
and is not normally recoverable.

Properly done this is a one time operation unless you have SEVERE
humidity problems.

            Newton
            nhunt@jagat.com