Carl Root wrote: > > ETomlinCF3 wrote: > > > > Jerry go with the Satin Spar Varnish. Clean all the holes with the rifle > > brush first then dip the brush in the varnish till it wont drip to bad. Swab > > about three holes then re-dip. Should do the trick. Wait a day or two for it > > to dry. Some on the list will dip the pin then pound but I don't think that > > is the way to go. Have done many as discribed below and all feel good to this > > day. > > This is not how I learned it....... > > First, the varnish. The product that got this started was sold by Otto > Trefz, Phila, PA, now gone. It was a LOW OIL varnish. If it's not low > oil, I wouldn't use it. > > You swab just the top third or so of the hole, not the whole thing. The > idea is to temporarily soften the wood fibers to reduce the damage from > driving the pins. You don't get the benefit if it dries first. > > I suggest you try this test. Drill two identical pilot holes into hard > maple for two identical large lag screws. Swab the top of one hole, > leave the other dry. turn a screw into each hole. See if you can feel > the difference in torque initially. Wait a few days and test torque > again. Trefz recommended drilling a 15/64 hole for a 2/O pin. I couldn't beleive it till I tried it, but it worked fine. When I used it, I put a drop on the pin and rotated it on the bushing. Pin drove in easy and worked fine for as long as I serviced the piano. John Freeman Professional Piano Technician 50 years Muncie, Indiana
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