Hi Folks, Had a good chuckle thinking visualizing what could happen using the torch method. Especially since it is the July 4th weekend. I think that truing your method just for fun on a few keys might be quite a hoot. Will update my fire insurance first though :<0 Joe Goss ---------- > From: Guy, Karen, and Tor Nichols <nicho@roadrunner.com> > To: pianotech@ptg.org > Subject: Re: Key FrontsWARNING:PYROS DELETE NOW!!! > Date: Saturday, July 03, 1999 11:00 AM > > At 03:29 PM 7/2/99 -0500, you wrote: > >List members. > >Is there a easy way to remove key fronts. > > Ron, > Yes, there's a very easy way, but it's one of those that I'm not sure > is... uh.... sanctioned by any organization. %^) > > But...... it REALLY REALLY works, so... > > 1) Remove tops first, with whatever method you're used to. > 2) Take key set OUTSIDE, and layout on bench, or whatever, nice flat > continuos surface. > 3) Use sponge to moisten bare wood of front of keys, sides, tops, and > bottoms. note: if replacing front bushings, do this procedure first. > 4)Layout all 52 moistened keys in a VERY straight line, all sides flush, > all fronts hanging off the edge of the bench at least 1/2". > 5) Fill a plant-mister/cat-training device-type bottle with water, and set > to medium mist > 6)Set a regular propane torch (cheap/disposable/whatever) to a > small-to-medium flame, and.......... > 7)Just *touch* the tip of the flame to the dead-center of the front. Be > ready to move on quickly.Different fronts react at different rates, but > you'll detect the appropriate speed ... soon. Use the mister bottle to > extinguish, when needed, and to keep the little black flying goobers in > check. Don't breath the stuff, of course, but this procedure is SO QUICK > that you'll be able to hold your breath for the entire job. Really. > 8) Block sand lightly, after torching, and you're ready. Minutes later. > > Positives: > Very fast and efficient > Negatives: > Toxic air pollution, and the minor possibility of a little scorching on > the sides, if not pre-moistened or lined-up squarely. > > >Or, who sells the best fixture to saw them off? > > Dunno, if I have to, I route the buggers. > > > > >Does anyone use the one piece key top and fronts? I've only used the tops > >and have a system for that but wondering how best to do the complete one > >piece unit. > >Ron Lindquist R&R Piano Service > > Biggest clue with one-piece is to stay thin... like 50's or 60's. 75's > won't flex easily enough to "arch" them into place. First contact needs to > be the very top front edge, of course. Indexing to one side or the other > saves a little trimming. Centering is for Shirleys. > > > Have fun, and if you burn down your shop, you never heard of me. ;-) > > Guy Nichols, RPT (which DOESN'T stand for something P yro T echnic !)
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