Key Fronts (Removel)

[Mark Story]

Ron,

I didn't see any replys describing a system like mine, so here goes: I
remove and trim fronts on a jig that I built for a table saw. It works on
the principal that you want to have the new front at the same level as the
original. I built a panel that holds the full keyset and runs in the miter
guide slot parallel to the saw blade. I clamp the keys to the panel with a
solid steel bar (rectangular) faced with sandpaper. There are carriage bolts
that run through the panel about every six inches for fastening the clamp
bar to the keys/panel. Once the keys are carefully fastened into place with
the carriage bolts in the spaces that the sharps would occupy, the cut depth
is set. I have a true steel angle attatched to the rip fence. The rip fence
is set to the cut depth desired and the keys are carfully set to meet the
steel angle (this may be hard to visulaize) both flush with and perfectly
perpendicular to the angle. The fastening bar is then tightened and the cut
is run.

The keys to success are: 1. making sure that your key panel is running
perfectly parallel to the blade; 2. that the rip fence is locked exactly
parallel; 3. your steel angle attatched to the fence is perfectly true along
the length of the keyboard.

Mark Story, RPT
Eastern Washington University
MS100 Cheney, WA 99004
509-359-7017
mark.story@mail.ewu.edu
----- Original Message -----
From: Ron Lindquist <ronli@newnorth.net>
To: <pianotech@ptg.org>
Sent: Friday, July 02, 1999 1:29 PM
Subject: Key Fronts (Removel)


> List members.
>
> Is there a easy way to remove key fronts.
>
> Or, who sells the best fixture to saw them off?
>
> Does anyone use the one piece key top and fronts?  I've  only used the
tops
> and have a system for that but wondering how best to do the complete  one
> piece  unit.
>
> Ron Lindquist   R&R Piano Service
>                 6039 River Rd.
>                 Eagle River, Wi  54521
>                 715-479-7051
>