repairing an "ebonized finish"

[Paul Chick]

John and list:
Another technique for matching colors is to "glaze" the new finsh. This is
done with a glazing liquid and universal colors (available from Mohawk
Finishing) or by using wash coats of lacquer with small amounts of colorant
added and build the colors until a match is achieved. I emphasize thin.
Reduce the lacquer to 75% thinner 25% lacquer,. and very small amounts of
colorant keeping it translucent. Study the old finish to determine the
"tint" of the ebony-is it "redish", "bluish", "greenish" etc. All you need
for colorant are the three primaries and the two neutrals, and patience.
Always test your mixes on white paper or white lacquered hardboard and wait
until your sample is DRY! Big paint stores and auto body supply stores carry
the necessary colorants, thinners, etc. and advice.
Paul Chick RPT
-----Original Message-----
From: bases-loaded@juno.com <bases-loaded@juno.com>
To: pianotech@ptg.org <pianotech@ptg.org>
Date: Sunday, July 11, 1999 8:21 AM
Subject: Re: repairing an "ebonized finish"


>Hi John -
>
>I agree with Jim B. that there are different shades of black and with Jim
>C. that it is unlikely you are dealing with lacquer.  However, that
>doesn't mean you cannot use lacquer for your repair.  It is a very
>convenient finish for repairs because of its quick drying and because it
>"melts" into itself completely.  It also bites into other finishes quite
>well.
>
>The final color and sheen depends to some degree on how much you rub out
>the finish (to what sheen), and whether or not it is clear coated or not.
> I suggest you try finishing a few scrap pieces and try some without
>clear top coats and some with, using a couple different black paints for
>your color.  If the top coat of the original finish was a clear coat
>(probably was), you can be assured it has darkened to amber a bit over
>the years.  A similar "aged" color can be achieved with a dark shellac,
>or a shellac colored with alcohol dyes.  Also remember that the finish is
>a completely "filled" finish, meaning you will have to build up enough
>material on the new wood to eliminate any grain telegraphing through.
>I'm sure if you "play around" in the shop for a couple hours you will
>come up with something that is passable.  Before matching, make sure the
>piece you're trying to match is good and clean and polished, to give you
>a more accurate look at what you are aiming for.
>
>If you have any other concerns, feel free to ask.
>
>Mark Potter
>bases-loaded@juno.com
>
>On Sat, 10 Jul 1999 22:28:46 -0400 John Gunderson
><jgunderson@monmouth.com> writes:
>> I have an Ibach grand from turn of the century.  The cabinet is an
>> "ebonized" finish and is in good condition.  The only problem is
>> that
>> the slots on either end of the music desk (where it rides in & out
>> on
>> the glides) had been damaged.  Some one had the damage repaired.  It
>> looks like it may have been done professionally at a millwork
>> somewhere,
>> the two damaged sections cut out and a veneer of maple was spliced
>> in on
>> each side.  The repair is structurally sound,  the desk fits
>> properly on
>> the glides and moves in & out and the top surfaces where the pieces
>> were
>> spliced in have been leveled and finely sanded.  The problem is that
>> the
>> repairs are unfinished.  I would like to try to blend the repair in
>> with
>> the rest of the cabinet.  I need some advice on how to do that.  I
>> don't
>> want to just paint the music desk.  Black lacquer just doesn't match
>> an
>> ebonized finish.  Does anybody have any experience with "ebonizing".
>>
>> Thanks,  John Gunderson, Neptune City, NJ
>>
>