> Thanks to all who replied to my question. I did note how many turns I > made, and I'll just turn them up to where they were, minus a little > bit. The bolts are also bent to fit into the action bracket cups, so > there's some more friction than necessary. I don't care for the > arrangement, but there it is. > Thanks again, > Paul McCloud > Hi Paul, What model of Baldwin is it? The 6000 52" vertical, a Hamilton 243 studio, or another model? The reason I ask is that I find that dropping the action to the correct height so that the bolts fit in and the subsequent re-regulation is the only long-term solution to fixing this problem. The next tech (unless it's you) will be cursing the bolts just as you did. I find that hammer strike point isn't a big concern in the top end, because the hammers from factory are very round and strike point is not greatly altered by dropping the action the small amount needed. As for damper mis-alignment, the bass dampers on both the Hamilton and 6000 models are attached to the damper blocks by very flexible red felt, the dampers move to realign to the string. Try twisting one of the damper heads out of alignment, you'll see what I mean. If the bolts are bent, they will need to be replaced. They are easily obtainable from a better quality bolt supply shop. Just a quick note on top end hammers on the studio Baldwins. I find that reshaping the top hammers to a sharper strike point vastly improves the clarity of the top end tone, and gets rid of a lot of hammer mass while you are at it. If you reset the action to line up the bolts, and reshape the hammers to match this new setting, you will get superior results to leaving the action dialed up so that the action brackets are bending. If this is a new Baldwin, or one within the warranty period, the above repairs are warranty work. I have personally done several, and have been reimbursed for my time. Call Kent Webb at 1-800- 876-2976 ext. 8585 to confirm. Regards, Rob Kiddell RPT atonal@telusplanet.net
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