CA glue for Bridges?

[BSimon1234@AOL.COM]

Willem Blees wrote:

<<To repair a bridge, if all the wood is still there, use either a super glue,
or...>>

So far as I know, CA glue (superglue) cures very hard, brittle, and
inflexible. When cured it is, in fact, acrylic plastic.   Cure a thin layer of
superglue on glass, then try to scrape it off with a razor blade and it
shatters into dust.

Hide glue, which is slightly flexible, had a very long and successful history,
but for decades the preferred glues for wood have been aliphatic resin glues (
Titebond yellow glue),  and resorcinal glues. Both of these glues dry slightly
flexible, allowing for the wood to expand and contract without breaking the
glue joint. The glues have been designed for this. It stands to reason that
manufacturers think that a slight flexibility is a good thing in wood glues.
Try scraping a thin layer of these glues off of glass. They react quite
differently than CA glue does. These are "tough" glues.


Mr. Blees, - since you recommend CA glue for bridges, I was wondering if you
have done any experimentation to show the bridge will still be attached to the
board in - say three months or a year?   

Or,- do you know of a piano manufacturer that has begun putting on all of
their bridges with CA glue?

Or, have you read any technical material that purports CA glue to be better
than aliphatic glue for wood?

This is such a new and radical approach to gluing wood, that I was wondering
on what evidence  you base your advice?

Sincerely,

Bill Simon
Phoenix