Brian Trout wrote: > ...The thinking behind what I've > been doing is to let the becket (the end of the wire that is) stick out of > the hole aprox. 1/2 the diameter of the wire, not to exceed the diameter of > the wire. What that leaves me with is a wire end that acts as a kind of > stop for the coil and when it's lifted it keeps the coil from coming up too > far. Brian, I used to do the same thing. It made sense to me, not having been formally trained, to leave the becket a little "proud" of the tuning pin to use as a backstop for when I lifted the coils. However, I did notice that most factory stringers didn't do this and it finally dawned on me that my little time-saving piece of wire was disturbing the natural lay of the helix. If you look closely at a coil, the top turn normally covers half of the hole, going around the back side, and if the becket protrudes, it causes the coil to tilt. Not a problem for tuning or stability, probably, and there _are_ instances where you _do_ want to tilt the coil (where the string goes up sharply to the first bearing point) to ward off a tendency to overwrap. I eventually came to the conclusion that, ever striving to do "the best job possible", the coil should be in a relaxed position. It appeals to me aesthetically and I think that there is no question of tuning stability with this kind of approach. You also asked about a measuring guage. I'm sure Jon has a well-thought-out solution but, FWIW, I take a couple of turns of one end of a copper electrical wire around the handle of my wire cutters. I run the other end up toward the cutting jaws, securing it with duct tape, and bend it away at a 90-degree angle, ending 3" away from the jaws. The results are very consistent, 3-turn coils. Tom -- Thomas A. Cole, RPT Santa Cruz, CA mailto:tcole@cruzio.com
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