C-A glue for pin blocks

[Joe & Penny Goss]

Paul,
Your only concern needs to be neatness and protect the action from drips
that may occur.
You do not need to use activator if you are able to come back the next day
to tune.
When using the activator as a spray, try to protect the bass strings by
shielding them with an old newspaper  or anything handy, held in your hand
and moving it along as you spray.
Joe Goss

----------
> From: Paul S. Larudee <larudee@pacbell.net>
> To: pianotech@ptg.org
> Subject: Re: C-A glue for pin blocks
> Date: Saturday, May 08, 1999 7:23 PM
> 
> BSimon1234@AOL.COM wrote:
> > 
> > No. Just hit it with the CA and accellerator  where it is. Don't loosen
it,
> > don't take off the coil, etc.
> > 
> > No - for just one pin slip a foot square sheet of alum foil above the
action,
> > below the area of the pin. You are only going to put on a few drops,
less
> > than one  cc.
> > 
> > No. -Get a 1/2 or 1 oz. small bottle of the CA glue, put a capillary
tip on
> > it and apply with that.  You should see it flow around the bae of the
pin.
> > Don't apply forever. Give it a good sploosh, let it sit a minute, give
it
> > another good sploosh, applying only around the pin, not out onto the
plate,
> > not up onto the coil.  Let that soak in, then put a very tiny drop of
> > accellerator at the base of the pin. You might see the residue of the
CA glue
> > "freeze" solid. I would leave it alone for several hours, a day or two
is
> > better, but it is possible that 10 minutes might also work.
> > 
> Bill,
> 
> Sounds like the idea is not to address the looseness of the entire hole,
> just to create a little more friction, mainly where the pin exits the
> block.  Is that right?
> 
> If that is the case, I suppose high viscosity (red label) stuff would
> not be the glue of choice.  My thought was that I would need the glue to
> penetrate as deep and saturate the wood as much as possible.  From what
> you're saying it sounds like that might be overkill and would create too
> strong a bond.  Or would it be appropriate as long not too much is used?
> 
> Thanks.
> 
> Paul S. Larudee, RPT
> Richmond, CA
> > <<4.  Clean the underside of the pin block; install and tighten jack.
> > Whack pin just enough to break glue contact.  Turn pin to point lightly
> > above surrounding pins, replace coil, bring to tension and tune.>>
> > 
> > No.  It is unlikely that there will be a residue on the underside,
especially
> > for just one pin. The  drips come from treating the entire pinblock en
masse
> > with several ounces of CA glue.
> > 
> > <<How's that?
> > 
> > The above advice is just my opinion, it is the way I would do it,  but
I bet
> > it works better than the elaborate scheme you were intending. If the
torque
> > is insufficient, support and tap. If the current pin torque is above 15
inch
> > pounds, it is unlikely that tapping is manditory. The CA treatment
quite
> > possibly will be enough.
> > 
> > Some questions:
> > 
> > <<Q#1:  When the pin gets whacked, does it really separate cleanly from
> > the surrounding wood (and the glue itself).  Why doesn't some of the
> > glue remain on the pin, possibly along with bits of wood from the
block?>>
> > 
> > Support the pinblock if you need to whack the pin, but I would just put
the
> > tuning hammer on the pin, knock it flat a bit, then tune. If things
went
> > well, you will likely hear the crack of a jumping pin, once, releasing
the
> > pin to be tuned. I treated quite a few pins in experimentation months
ago,
> > and just went and got the pieces of pinblock and cut them apart on the
band
> > saw. I sawed a few pins out from the block. The pins were essentially
clean,
> > the glue was into the wood, no fibers torn out at all. Perhaps it was
because
> > the pins I experimented on were new and plated? ( I started with pin
torque
> > of zero, with the pins able to fall through the holes,  and got up to
80
> > in/lbs with two treatments.
> > 
> > <<Q#2:  Why doesn't the pin bind and jump during tuning from rubbing
> > against a plastic and possibly uneven surface?>>
> > 
> > Don't know, but none of the ones I have treated ever bound up or
jumped,
> > except for the initial break-a-way.
> > 
> > Why not experiment on a scrap piece of pinblock in your shop before
> > experimenting on the customer's piano?
> > 
> > My 2 cents.
> > 
> > Bill Simon
> > Phoenix