Paul S. Larudee, RPT writes: << Sounds like the idea is not to address the looseness of the entire hole, just to create a little more friction, mainly where the pin exits the block. Is that right?>> No. - I didn't think to mention it, but I use very thin, water thin, "low viscosity" glue. I figure that it does capillary to a good portion of the length of the pin if you put enough on. The experiments that I did with gap filling and high viscosity glue showed they did little good. <<My thought was that I would need the glue to penetrate as deep and saturate the wood as much as possible.>> I agree. << From what you're saying it sounds like that might be overkill and would create too strong a bond. Or would it be appropriate as long not too much is used?>> I think you would be shooting in the dark if you tried to guestimate how little to use. I would favor overtreating rather than undertreating. I doubt that you will get too strong of a bond on pins that are so loose that they need to be treated. In treating a whole piano with loose pins, some are going to be tighter than others. I did have one grand on which the breakaway torque (after treatment) on a number of the pins was over 130 inch pounds. I found that slight pin tapping nicely broke the pins loose and the torque was 60-80 in/lbs. Since I did not dissect the piano, I don't know if the pins separated from the glue, or some wood fibers pulled out, or whatever. I do know that it is beautiful to tune and has remained so. Months ago someone on this list mentioned that they had snapped a pin off after treatment. I would like to thank them for mentioning that. I have kept it in mind. They also recommended treating, waiting until fully cured, then tapping a bit before tuning. I agree with that method. ( for just one pin, knock it flat to breakaway, then tune. Good luck Bill Simon Phoenix
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