C-A glue for pin blocks

[Roger Jolly]

Hi Joe,
       I use the red Hot stuff for border line pins, a tip to stop the
stuff from running all over the place. Salvage an empty bottle and use a
new cap with a pin hole in the nossle,  pour about an 1/8 to 1/4" of glue
into the empty bottle. You now have to have the bottle near vertical before
the glue runs out.
This gives you time to get the tip right to the bass of the tuning pin with
no over spill. Remember wash the bottle in solvent for reuse.
Regards Roger


At 07:59 PM 5/8/99 -0600, you wrote:
>Paul,
>Your only concern needs to be neatness and protect the action from drips
>that may occur.
>You do not need to use activator if you are able to come back the next day
>to tune.
>When using the activator as a spray, try to protect the bass strings by
>shielding them with an old newspaper  or anything handy, held in your hand
>and moving it along as you spray.
>Joe Goss
>
>----------
>> From: Paul S. Larudee <larudee@pacbell.net>
>> To: pianotech@ptg.org
>> Subject: Re: C-A glue for pin blocks
>> Date: Saturday, May 08, 1999 7:23 PM
>> 
>> BSimon1234@AOL.COM wrote:
>> > 
>> > No. Just hit it with the CA and accellerator  where it is. Don't loosen
>it,
>> > don't take off the coil, etc.
>> > 
>> > No - for just one pin slip a foot square sheet of alum foil above the
>action,
>> > below the area of the pin. You are only going to put on a few drops,
>less
>> > than one  cc.
>> > 
>> > No. -Get a 1/2 or 1 oz. small bottle of the CA glue, put a capillary
>tip on
>> > it and apply with that.  You should see it flow around the bae of the
>pin.
>> > Don't apply forever. Give it a good sploosh, let it sit a minute, give
>it
>> > another good sploosh, applying only around the pin, not out onto the
>plate,
>> > not up onto the coil.  Let that soak in, then put a very tiny drop of
>> > accellerator at the base of the pin. You might see the residue of the
>CA glue
>> > "freeze" solid. I would leave it alone for several hours, a day or two
>is
>> > better, but it is possible that 10 minutes might also work.
>> > 
>> Bill,
>> 
>> Sounds like the idea is not to address the looseness of the entire hole,
>> just to create a little more friction, mainly where the pin exits the
>> block.  Is that right?
>> 
>> If that is the case, I suppose high viscosity (red label) stuff would
>> not be the glue of choice.  My thought was that I would need the glue to
>> penetrate as deep and saturate the wood as much as possible.  From what
>> you're saying it sounds like that might be overkill and would create too
>> strong a bond.  Or would it be appropriate as long not too much is used?
>> 
>> Thanks.
>> 
>> Paul S. Larudee, RPT
>> Richmond, CA
>> > <<4.  Clean the underside of the pin block; install and tighten jack.
>> > Whack pin just enough to break glue contact.  Turn pin to point lightly
>> > above surrounding pins, replace coil, bring to tension and tune.>>
>> > 
>> > No.  It is unlikely that there will be a residue on the underside,
>especially
>> > for just one pin. The  drips come from treating the entire pinblock en
>masse
>> > with several ounces of CA glue.
>> > 
>> > <<How's that?
>> > 
>> > The above advice is just my opinion, it is the way I would do it,  but
>I bet
>> > it works better than the elaborate scheme you were intending. If the
>torque
>> > is insufficient, support and tap. If the current pin torque is above 15
>inch
>> > pounds, it is unlikely that tapping is manditory. The CA treatment
>quite
>> > possibly will be enough.
>> > 
>> > Some questions:
>> > 
>> > <<Q#1:  When the pin gets whacked, does it really separate cleanly from
>> > the surrounding wood (and the glue itself).  Why doesn't some of the
>> > glue remain on the pin, possibly along with bits of wood from the
>block?>>
>> > 
>> > Support the pinblock if you need to whack the pin, but I would just put
>the
>> > tuning hammer on the pin, knock it flat a bit, then tune. If things
>went
>> > well, you will likely hear the crack of a jumping pin, once, releasing
>the
>> > pin to be tuned. I treated quite a few pins in experimentation months
>ago,
>> > and just went and got the pieces of pinblock and cut them apart on the
>band
>> > saw. I sawed a few pins out from the block. The pins were essentially
>clean,
>> > the glue was into the wood, no fibers torn out at all. Perhaps it was
>because
>> > the pins I experimented on were new and plated? ( I started with pin
>torque
>> > of zero, with the pins able to fall through the holes,  and got up to
>80
>> > in/lbs with two treatments.
>> > 
>> > <<Q#2:  Why doesn't the pin bind and jump during tuning from rubbing
>> > against a plastic and possibly uneven surface?>>
>> > 
>> > Don't know, but none of the ones I have treated ever bound up or
>jumped,
>> > except for the initial break-a-way.
>> > 
>> > Why not experiment on a scrap piece of pinblock in your shop before
>> > experimenting on the customer's piano?
>> > 
>> > My 2 cents.
>> > 
>> > Bill Simon
>> > Phoenix
>
Roger Jolly
Balwin Yamaha Piano Centres.
Saskatoon/Regina.
Canada.