Key rebushing

[John Hartman]

Ken,

I  have been using a technique to deal with this problem for some time.
I mill a dado across the bottom of all the keys about 1/16" by 7/16"
with a carbide dado head on the table saw. Originally I used a router
installed in a table for this job but this resulted in less than
satisfactory results. The wood would tear out on one side on the key as
the bit exited. The dodo cutter does a perfect job. I have made a
sliding jig to index and safely hold each key as it is milled. I know
that many people use the router for similar action work but I have found
that the table saw is indispensable for all types of key work as well as
other action related jobs.

I now prefer to use Leather to bush the front mortises. I have been
using goat skin and find that I can thickness in to fit mortises of
various dimensions. I have reverted to the Spurlock type of coals for
this to allow me to make adjustments by using thicker leather on one
side of the mortise. Many times front mortises can be erratic in size
due to over easing . I made my own coals with extra wide shoulders. This
allows the extension of the leather further across the dato (thanks to
Ted Sambel for this idea). I find there is less problems with the
bushings coming unglued this way.

Even though you didn't ask I no longer re-bush the key buttons. I
replace them with new hard quarter sawn maple buttons. 

John Hartman


Ken Jankura wrote:
> 
> List, I'm curious how others deal with the problem of the 'indent'
> disappearing after old key front bushings have been removed by steam or
> water. Any way to prevent it? Do any of you, as a matter of course, rout a
> new space for the bushings. It seems to be mostly the older pianos that may
> have had their share of "reverse easing" over the years. But on the other
> hand, has anyone noticed false dip readings or bad touch feel from bushings
> that extend below the key a little bit?
> Ken Jankura
> Newburg, PA
> 
>