Clyde wrote: > Last week for the first time I used Vagias plastic replacement heads (the first > time I tried this) on an old upright piano that has relatively little value. It > needed nineteen keytops and should have had a full set of new plastic keytops, > but that didn't seem advisable here and the client didn't want to spend the > money. > > Vagias recommends spraying the backs of the keytops with white lacquer, which I > did, then using water-based contact cement. I was unable to find any, so I used > Weldwood Contact Cement, which is not water-based. I spread it thinly with a > small (3/8") flat brush on both the keytop and the wood of the key and let it dry > at least ten minutes, then pressed them together. There was a brush in the > bottle but I was unable to control the amount of glue when I tried to use it. > Again, the plus here is the instant bond and no clamping needed, which is also of > course a minus if you don't get it right the first time. I was quite satisfied > with this method of gluing the keytops and may continue using it for those > one-at-a-time replacements. > > Up to this time I had usually used CA and accelerator, which as Bill mentioned > results in a very weak bond. Thoughts, anyone? Hi Clyde, I have been using the contact cement method for those one-off keytop repairs for years and they are all still holding. See ya, Doug Mahard
This PTG archive page provided courtesy of Moy Piano Service, LLC