Hi, For the small replacement jobs, I have had very good luck with Duco Cement, by Devcon. It does have a strong odour though. For replacement of a complete set of plastic keytops, I use the type that includes the fronts and use a cement that appears to be PVC-E, just on the surface of the key. I have had some on, in a boarding school system for over 10 years, still holding strong. Regards, John M. Ross Windsor, Nova Scotia, Canada. Tunethepno@AOL.COM wrote: > In a message dated 10/11/99 6:48:57 AM US Eastern Standard Time, > cedel@supernet.com writes: > > << I used > Weldwood Contact Cement, . . . I spread it thinly with a > small (3/8") flat brush on both the keytop and the wood of the key and let > it dry > at least ten minutes, then pressed them together. There was a brush in the > bottle but I was unable to control the amount of glue when I tried to use it. > Again, the plus here is the instant bond and no clamping needed >> > > I've been using Weldwood for keytops and action related repairs for years and > have been very happy with the results. For application on keytops, I use a > small, cheap artist or craft brush (the kind that come 3-in-a-package at the > grocery store) that I can just throw away. I think the width I use is a > little narrower than 3/8" and I can usually have a pretty fair amount of > control. When I get a little of that stringy leftover on the face of the > keytop, I can just rub it off with my finger and it balls right up like > rubber cement. If it is on there too long, I may have to use naptha to get it > off and buff the keytop. > For applications that I really want to be sure of, like sharps for instance, > I use a technique I saw Norm Abrams use on New Yankee Workshop. Put the > cement on both surfaces in a thin even coat, wait at least fifteen minutes > and put on another thin coat. After a fifteen or twenty minute wait, press > the parts together and they will be really secure. Because of the immediate > adhesion, I sometimes fudge on the wait period by five or ten minutes and > then let the parts barely touch while I line them up. They can usually be > nudged one direction or the other slightly and then pressed to make the bond > solid. > I like Weldwood over Duro because I think it works a little better and I > don't like the smell of Duro. IMHO > John Stroup
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