>A 3x5x1 inch steel weighs a lot, and would be unwieldy. I don't use the block >of wood to pound down the pins. The block of wood only tells me what pins are >higher. * Hello Wim, I understood what you said, and wouldn't have believed you could drive pins with a block of wood anyway. >When I pound down the pins, the pin block support is still in place. * Assumed. I expect the lights are probably on, and the shop isn't under water either, right? %-) Just kidding. We can backtrack to any of the nearly infinite details preceding whacking in the pins, but if someone has gotten far enough to want to level the tuning pins, the support is either already there or the pinblock is already trashed. Then again, I guess it couldn't hurt to mention it. >The suggestion of using a guide on the tuning pin punch is very good. I do >that too. I tape a hammer shank to the side of my tuning pin punch. But even >that sometimes doesn't give you perfectly level pins. > >BTW, I am sure everyone knows this, but when you do use that guide make sure >you set it so that it allows the pin to be turned once around. Otherwise >you'll wind up with the coil on the plate. > >Wim ------------------------------------------------------- << 1) Is there an easy way to level tuning pins after a restring/re-pin other than line of sight? >> ------------------------------------------------------ * My suggestion was based on the question asked of how to easily get all the tuning pins the same height, not how to set string height. They aren't the same thing, you know. Realistically, if the job passes your eyeball test, it will probably pass everyone else's too. I don't know of anyone who judges rebuilds on the uniformity of tuning pin height, unless it's visibly sloppy. Ron N
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