Plastic keytop repair

Paul S. Larudee larudee@pacbell.net
Fri, 17 Sep 1999 10:50:50 -0700


Robert Goodale wrote:
> 
> Clyde Hollinger wrote:
> 
> > Friends,
> >
> > Two days ago I tuned for an elderly lady who claims to have graduated
> > from Peabody Conservatory and owns a 1940 Winter spinet (I know,
> > something doesn't quite add up here).  Three of the keytops have nicks
> > in the front edge.  She asked about having the nicks repaired.
> >
> > Advice?  I've heard about the chip repair kits but haven't tried them.
> > Even though the yellowed keytop could be matched in color, wouldn't the
> > color of the keytop change as one puts the finishing touches on the
> > repair material with sandpaper or steel wool or whatever?  How should I
> > advise this client?
> 
> A method you might want to try involves using colored epoxy.  Mix some
> white color powder, (used for furniture and case touchup), with some high
> quality 24 hour type epoxy.  The color might not match perfectly but we are
> only talking about a small chipped area.  It shouldn't look to bad.  Other
> color powders can be added to make it a little more yellow, gray, etc.
> 
> Rough up the plastic around the repair first to give the epoxy a fresh dirt
> free surface to cling to.  Use masking tape to create whatever "dams" are
> needed to keep the epoxy from dripping.  Once it is cured and dried, (at
> least 24 hours - I like to wait until at least 35 or so), use files, sand
> paper, razor blades or other shaping tools to properly match the contours.
> As an option you could also clean all of the keys with some steel wool to
> brighten them up a bit and help blend the repair.
> 
> Good Luck!
> 
> Rob Goodale, RPT
> Las Vegas, NV

Ouch!  For two visits and the labor I would have to charge at least
$150.  Is it worth it?  Better just to recover the whole set.

Paul S. Larudee, RPT
Richmond, CA


This PTG archive page provided courtesy of Moy Piano Service, LLC