Questions

[Jon Page]

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At 05:35 AM 12/17/2000 -0500, you wrote:
>Jim asks:
><<>...is there some
> >type of jig that can be made so you know exactly where the new strings
> >will go? Usually, I line them up with the grooves in the old hammers,
> >maybe a jig would be better.>>
>
>Greetings,
>    I use a jig.  It is a piece of soundboard shim which I lay across the
>strings, even with the belly rail, indexing it to a plate strut so I can put
>it back in the original position.  Then I use a pencil to make a mark where
>every string passes under.  When restringing, I just get all the strings in,
>pulled up enough to keep coils tight, and then align them to the marks on the
>shim.
>Regards,
>Ed Foote RPT

I had a similar situation a month ago on a good old upright.  The bass 
'agraffe' section
was pins driven into a wooden cap on the exposed block. The whole block had 
shifted
over causing the strings to be far towards the treble.

After fashioning a new bearing bar out of Delignit, I registered it in 
place with two bridge pins.
The hammers were not out of place, so by running a string from the 
corresponding bridge
pin through the hammer strike point; I marked where the string intersected 
the bearing bar.
I did this for every string taking into account the string offset bending 
around the pin.

Once I had this mapped out, I noticed slight uneven spacing. So I measured 
the distance
of the end pins of the single strings and double unisons and divided by the 
number of unisons.
Then with a divider I calibrated the distance between the respective notes. 
I then set the divider
for the second string on the bichords. Reinstalling the cap on the register 
pins and checked
for hammer alignment, slick. Patted myself on the back

Because of the angle of the single wires I could not drill the cap 
installed (fearing drill bit drift)
so I drilled it on the drill press but not all the way (just to the last 
layer). I did not want epoxy
oozing back up into the holes. I forgot to mention that I epoxy filled the 
old holes in the block
and the ones made by some previous attempt. I levelled that mess to seat my 
new bearing bar.
I used my sound board press (wooden I-beam and spring loaded pressure 
applicators) to epoxy
it in place (jpg's available  :-)     Drilling for the pins through the cap 
holes was uneventful.

After staining, shellacing and installing the strings, it looked like the 
factory job.

I hate working for relatives, some of my best work is done for a fraction 
of what it's worth.

That's what i get for leaving a space open in my shop.

Reagrds,



Jon Page,   piano technician
Harwich Port, Cape Cod, Mass.
mailto:jonpage@mediaone.net
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