Restoring old uprights - RICCA & SONS

[Stephen Airy]

I would but the $$$ is hard to come by.  :)

--- Brian Lawson <lawsonic@global.co.za> wrote:
> Stephen, looking through the archives you have been
> threatening to do
> something about your piano since Novemeber last
> year.
> 
> Stop thinking about it and Do Something!  drop the
> tension and cut the
> strings, then you'll be committed
> 
> Brian
> 
> 
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Stephen Airy" <stephen_airy@yahoo.com>
> To: <pianotech@ptg.org>
> Sent: Sunday, August 12, 2001 5:31 PM
> Subject: Re: Restoring old uprights
> 
> 
> > Question -- what do you guys think of restoring
> Ricca
> > & Son pianos?  I have one and i was wondering if
> you
> > guys know if it was a good brand, or a junkie or
> what
> > was it?  My piano needs some action work and new
> > strings & tuning pins.  I think the pinblock is
> fine
> > -- has 2/0 pins and the pins are fairy uniformly
> > slightly loose -- probably would use 4/0.  I don't
> > know if the soundboard is cracked or not and the
> bass
> > bridge is somewhat cracked.
> >
> > --- Newton Hunt <nhunt@optonline.net> wrote:
> > > Hi Charles,
> > >
> > > You ask a lot of good questions, I will try to
> > > answer some of them with my
> > > thoughts.
> > >
> > > > "Can you replace a pin block in an old
> > > >  upright with(out) completely tearing the back
> > > apart?"
> > >
> > > Yes you can, but, is the piano worth the time
> and
> > > energy?  Some old uprights
> > > were magnificent instruments, better than what
> is
> > > affordable today, but some
> > > were the cheap stuff like you can buy now.  The
> old
> > > ones like Steinways, Masons,
> > > Bush & Lane, and many others were first class
> > > pianos.  Many of the others like
> > > Gulbrensen, as an example, were cheap then and
> are
> > > worthless today.
> > >
> > > So, a piano needs to be carefully appraised as
> to
> > > the original quality and what
> > > you are likely to get out of it when your work
> is
> > > done.  Doing a few pianos will
> > > give you the information you need to make
> rational
> > > decisions, so, go to it.
> > >
> > > Now, technically, it can be done.  One is to
> drill a
> > > large hole into the block
> > > and replace the removed material with pin block
> > > plugs and redrill.  Great care
> > > needs to be taken to assure that the plugs are
> well
> > > and truly glued into place
> > > and that they will never (nearly) rotate.
> > >
> > > Old blocks can be "revived" by dribbling CA glue
> > > down the pins, let set, tune,
> > > reglue as needed.  This is a good solution but
> the
> > > worst of the lot, except for
> > > using pin block "tighteners", a real no-no by
> any
> > > standard.
> > >
> > > The third way is to remove the plate, route out
> > > sections of the old block and
> > > replace with new material.  This assumes the old
> > > material is mechanically solid
> > > and well secured.  Replace the plate and
> redrill.
> > >
> > > > 2) In the method with the maple or pinblock
> > > material plugs, that requires
> > > > taking the plate off, right? Otherwise I can't
> see
> > > how you'd get the plug
> > > > in. Might be a silly question.
> > >
> > > No, unless it is one of the ones that do not
> have
> > > plate bushings.  The plate can
> > > be removed, the holes drilled out then plate
> > > replaced and redrilled.  Removing
> > > an upright plate is not as difficult as in a
> grand,
> > > most of the time, so not
> > > removing one is rather more of a bother.
> > >
> > > > " Is he talking about replacing the
> > > > pinblock, or filling and re-drilling the
> holes?
> > >
> > > No, drilling out the holes with the plate in
> place
> > > minus the plate bushings.
> > > New bushings and redrilling the new plugs. 
> Plugs
> > > made from new pinblock
> > > material is the way to go.  There is no other
> > > material that is useful in this
> > > situation.  Not epoxy, fiberglass, talcum
> powder,
> > > etc.
> > >
> > > > 4) Roy said that sometimes oversized pins
> don't
> > > work to his satisfaction. In
> > > > those cases, what is the problem? Can that
> problem
> > > be determined ahead of
> > > > time, or is it trial and error?
> > >
> > > Larger pins act like larger windlasses.  A large
> pin
> > > will pull more wire per
> > > turn than a smaller pin.  Old blocks often
> should be
> > > plugged or replaced instead
> > > of being repinned.  Larger pins are very often a
> > > compromise and sometimes the
> > > swing is the wrong way.  Knowing wood,
> construction,
> > > pins, feel of old and new,
> > > testing before committing, knowing quality of
> > > product and a lot of other
> > > decisions can help determine the better path. 
> There
> > > are so many clues to
> > > quality in the action, case, engineering and
> other
> > > places that can help.
> > > Ultimately doing it right helps more than trying
> to
> > > determine what hides behind
> > > a plate.
> > >
> > > > 5) Regarding using oversized pins on an old
> > > upright: Is that just a way to
> > > > get the job done in a reasonable and
> affordable
> > > way for the customer, or is
> > > > it something you would do if money weren't an
> > > issue?
> > >
> > > In two words, yes, no.
> > >
> > > > On the one hand, the pinblock on an old
> > > > upright is well protected from the elements
> > >
> > > Only to a limited degree.  Quality of materials,
> > > glue, construction and
> > > engineering count for far more.  Some climates
> can
> > > destroy any piano and others
> > > are benign.  Knowing some of the history is
> helpful
> > > but knowing quality and the
> > > materials help more.
> > >
> > > > and by using larger pins you might just be
> > > > delaying or not dealing with a problem (like
> > > cracks).
> > >
> > > Most exactly so, no argument, no discussion, no
> > > debate.
> > >
> > > > Can someone jump in
> > > > and offer more opinions?
> > >
> > > No, mine is the only one that counts.  :)  Now
> if
> > > you belief that I know of a
> > > bridge in Brooklyn...
> > >
> > > Have a great Sunday all.
> > >
> 
=== message truncated ===


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