bridge pin material

[jolly roger]

Hi Ron,
             I think we share the same feelings,  most of the problems seem
to stem from the bridge to pin fit.  On pin replacement, (most re stringing
jobs)  I have been using thin CA as a driving fluid, and have noted a
significant improvement in the cleanness of tone.  There also seems to be
an increase in power.  No doubt some of the purist on the list will condemn
 the practice, stating that the pins will be difficult to replace at a
later date.  My feelinf if they are not loose why do you want to replace them?

I think the CA acts as a barrier to stabilize the effects of  humidity
swings. A couple of respected rebuilders that I know, have also tried this,
they are understandably cautious, but their intitial findings seem similar
to mine.   Adding the CA makes the root and cap a composite material at the
joint, but leaves the main part of the bridge in it's normal state.  It
takes longer to repin  the bridge, but I feel the results are worth it.

The down side of removing the pins, well just give the pin a heathy tap to
break the joint before extraction.

Over the last few years I have relied more on tapping pins, and far less on
seating strings, with superior results,  less risk of cupping the bridge cap.

Regards Roger



>I don't know, I never tried it. Why not? And why not use a composite root
>and/or capping material that doesn't shrink and swell with humidity swings,
>so the string doesn't scrub a flat spot on the pin and crush the edge of
>the cap, and the pin doesn't get loose enough to flagpole? While we're at
>it, we probably need a better termination system on the bridge altogether.
>There's lots of room for improvement.
>
>
>Ron N
>