Bass String Splice

[Billbrpt@AOL.COM]

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In a message dated 12/23/01 8:12:47 AM Central Standard Time, 
mfarrel2@tampabay.rr.com (Farrell) writes:


> When a bass string breaks just above the winding end on a low-end/older
> piano (like within a half-inch or so), what do you do regarding the splice
> decision? New string? Unwrap some of the winding and splice? Clearly, better
> piano, more demanding client, gets new string. But what about the "just fix
> it for as little as possible" situation?
> 
This situation often means that the player plays very heavily, regardless of 
the kind of music.  A glance around may tell you what kind of music is 
played, if not, ask.  If it's classical, you'll see many books of advanced 
literature, mostly Romantic.  If the player plays Rock & Roll, Boogie Woogy, 
Jazz or Gospel, the damper pedal may also need maintenance.  These kind of 
players often use it as their "Bass Drum".  In a particular style of Jazz 
that comes from New Orleans, this is the norm.

Once you have one string gone, there may easily be more.  One may break 
within a short period of time after you have made a repair or replacement.  
You may easily be blamed for it and the customer will probably think it is 
the one you already repaired or replaced.  Indeed, the one *next* to the one 
that broke may be the next one to break because until the unison was 
restored, the single remaining string took all of the force.

Take a look at the hammers, are there deep grooves?   If so, tell the 
customer that the reason for the breakage is metal fatigue that can be 
mitigated be filing the hammers.  I have a few situations in my clientele 
where this has come up recently.

By asking about it on this List, there was an important point I remember, 
made by Newton Hunt.  That is, metal fatigue is *not* reversible.  So, once 
this process has begun, actions you may take such as filing the hammers will 
not cure the problem, the best they can do is cut down on the major factor 
which is causing the strings to break.

As for the splicing, yes, you are correct in peeling off a bit of the winding 
to give you the space you need to make the splice.  There is a serendipitous 
side effect to doing this, however:  Peeling off some of the winding (let's 
say, 3/16") increases the inharmonicity of the string.  Tying a knot in the 
speaking length decreases it.  If you are lucky, the two will cancel each 
other out.  Otherwise, your spliced string will create an irresolvable tuning 
problem known as a "snarl".  The mismatched inharmonicity of the two strings 
makes tuning them as a unison practically impossible.  The worst problem also 
with so-called "Universal" String replacements is that the *Inharmonicity* 
will not match.

Sometimes, you can just let the spliced string be there as a permanent 
repair.  If you do the splice well, you will take pride in your craftsmanship 
each time you see it there and witness that the unison is functioning 
normally.  If the piano is modern and under production, particularly if under 
warranty, you should order a new string and leave the splice as a temporary 
repair.

By the way, I don't bother with Universal Strings for the reasons you cite.  
I would admit that any in many cases, you could get a Universal String to 
work, but I don't consider that to always have a complete set available is 
worth the trouble.  I either splice or order a new replacement. 

If I want to order a replacement for a string I am replacing and the 
dimensions are not known, I measure the adjacent string carefully and supply 
the figures to the string winder.  In most cases, you'll have to insert an 
offset figure into measurements of an adjacent string:  the Hitchpin to start 
of winding will be different but the core diameter, outside diameter, and 
winding length will be identical.  Make measurements carefully!

For these individual replacement strings, I always use Schaff piano supply 
because the company is nearby and because their product is always well made.  
If I need a replacement made by measured dimensions, I just call them from my 
cellphone and ask for the String Winding Department.  If the piano scale 
design is well known and they have it on file, I can get a replacement within 
a day or two that ranges from satisfactory to perfect.  I can't recall a 
single time in more than 25 years that I was ever disappointed with a 
replacement string from them unless it was *my* error in ordering.

Lastly, don't expect a spliced or replaced string to stay in tune.  Tune a 
spliced string 10 cents (a gentle beat aurally) sharp and explain that it 
will go flat of it's own accord.  It may settle to a point where it does not 
disturb the customer.  Either make an appointment to retune it in 2 weeks or 
tell the customer to call you after two weeks if it is still not satisfactory.

For a replaced wound string, make sure you do all of the things that will 
release the unsettled points which will cause the string to go flat.  Pull it 
up to pitch and beyond by 25 cents (a rapid, sour sounding beat, aurally), 
tap the coil, squeeze the beckett, (close the gap), tap down the loop at the 
other end and at the bridge points (lightly, don't use heavy force that may 
damage the bridge), apply a few stretching techniques such as pressing on the 
string, making sure not damage or mar it, then tune the string up to +25 
cents (or a rapid beat aurally).

You can leave a mute to temporarily silence the sharpened string.  This is a 
particularly good idea if you will return in a short period of time.  
Sometimes, you may have a customer who is aware enough to remove the mute 
after a short period of time and can call you if retuning the unison is 
necessary.  In a few cases, you'll have a customer who has a tuning hammer 
and a mute and can maintain that unison but is not capable of tuning the 
whole piano.  I encourage the customer, in that circumstance, to do whatever 
is possible.  (You know you'll be back when there is some work that is 
worthwhile).

Regards,

Bill Bremmer RPT
Madison, Wisconsin
 <A HREF="http://www.billbremmer.com/">Click here: -=w w w . b i l l b r e m m e r . c o m =-</A> 

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