>There are two problems with using threaded rod for plate setting. > >The first is that you are dealing with a machine thread designed to >hold best in metal. The second is that you may not have enough >clearance under the plate for the nut and how are you going to adjust >it from above the plate. The first problem isn't a problem because the threads are plenty coarse enough and work just fine in a rebuild, just like they do in new Baldwins. The second problem isn't a problem either if you use a fairly low profile lock nut in the first place, and countersink the soundboard panel at the rim if you need the room. The panel won't mind a bit. >The real beauty of Coleman's system is that you _can_ adjust the >bearing after the plate is in. I chose this method because I do not >have a method of lifting out the plate by myself so for me it is a one >shot situation. That's the same beauty of the system I use, and that Brian is talking about. >Consider the bolts that go through the soundboard to the structural >member below. It has wood threads at the bottom and machine threads >at the top and they are adjustable from underneath the plate. Jim >Coleman Jr.'s bolts fulfill those needs admirably. > > Newton I've seen many a nose bolt with machine threads in the beam. In fact, I've got one right here, see? (holding up machine threaded nose bolt) The rest of the piano fell down around it, but it held just fine. I don't see a problem. Ron N
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