Hi Newton, What I was thinking was that the lock nut could be placed maybe 3/4" or so down the piece of threaded rod, leaving a bit of rod to come up through the plate hole. And the slot in the top of the rod (ground? cut? hadn't figured that one out yet) would be for adjusting with said behemoth of a screw driver or brace & bit. Then when it's all set, the plate is sitting on the lock nuts, then there would be enough of rod up through the plate holes to stick those acorn nuts on, holding it all in place. As for clearance under the plate, that could be drilled out of the rim with say a 5/8"?? or so X 1/2" or so deep hole where the bolt goes. (Just speculatin' or is that expectoratin') <grin> That's what my feeble little brain cell was feverishly trying to spew out. (Probably as clear as mud.) I don't know how well a course machine thread might or might not grip in a rim. I thought I heard that other people were using that type of thing with good success. I could be wrong. Hope no one's taking this as gospel, I'm just tossin' out an idea or two, seeing where it goes. That being said, now I do have to get to work. Shop projects are calling. Thanks Newton. Brian btrout@desupernet.net > There are two problems with using threaded rod for plate setting. > > The first is that you are dealing with a machine thread designed to > hold best in metal. The second is that you may not have enough > clearance under the plate for the nut and how are you going to adjust > it from above the plate.
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