Warped Shanks

[Brian Lawson]

A point of note re the term "burning shanks"... in England I grew up with
the term "to cast a shank"... meaning to "turn" (as you would cast a sail).
It may be, depending on the dryness of the shank that you end up with odd
one or two having burn marks, but that is a result of the conditons, not the
direct intention of the exercise.

Brian Lawson, RPT
Johannesburg, South Africa

TEXOMA CHAPTER
http://texoma.int.chapter.tripod.com



> Hi Dick,
>
> THe best tool I have found for this is a butane lighter with a long
> extension for lighting grills or fireplaces.  I use this for burning
> both vertical and grand shanks.
>
> The reason I prefer this method is because when you take the heat away
> it cools quickly (everything including the shank) and you can judge
> the amount of heat by watching the flame (low) and keep it moving up
> and down.  With blowers or heating elements it is hard to judge the
> amount of heat and I have scorched other parts with them and not with
> the flame.
>
> Move the hammer forward and put the flame next to the shank and move
> it up and down then twist the shank the way you wish it to go and then
> take the flame away.  COntinue to hold the hammer twisted for a few
> more seconds then look at it.  Heat again if needed.  Be considerate
> of the pinning and watch for other burning parts.  It is easy to
> scorch the hammer rail cloth so I move the hammer forward away from
> it.
>
> If you need to warp a shank to raise or lower the hammer strike point
> you can lift or press down the hammer at the strike point and heat the
> shank.  WOrks well.
>
> As for sideways you could use a pair of damper pliers that will hold a
> grand damper head with the jaws parallel and warp the shank as
> described above but most spacing cAn be done by loosening the butt
> screw and moving the hammer in the desired direction and tightening
> the screw.
>
> Just be careful and have your wits about you.
>
> Newton