Power Sanders and Ivory Keys

[Meyer Carl]

I sand keytops (ivory, never tried plastic unless scratched).  I have two
sanders, both Porter cable.  The large one is 10000 opm and the smaller
square one is 14000 opm.
I usually go to at least 600 grit.  Maybe that compensates for the lower
speed.

One thing I do is to put a half inch angle iron bar (a half inch square
piece of dimensional lumber will work if it's straight) under the fronts of
the keys.  Leave the keys in the action frame or the upright piano and
remove the cheek blocks.  Remove the sharps of course.  The keys will be
lifted slightly above the balance rail  and be flat relative to the bottom
of the fronts of the keys.

After the coarse sanding I will usually use the hydrogen peroxide and
sunlight to further bleach them before fine sanding and buffing.  Works for
me.

Carl Meyer


----- Original Message -----
From: "Delwin D Fandrich" <pianobuilders@olynet.com>
To: <pianotech@ptg.org>
Sent: Friday, February 16, 2001 7:19 PM
Subject: Re: Power Sanders and Ivory Keys


>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Piesik, John (JPIESIK)" <JPIESIK@arinc.com>
> To: "Pianotech Post Msg (E-mail)" <pianotech@ptg.org>
> Sent: February 16, 2001 10:23 AM
> Subject: Power Sanders and Ivory Keys
>
>
> > Does anyone out there have any experience with sanding and polishing
ivory
> > keytops with a palm-type orbital power finishing sander?
> --------------------------------------------------
>
> Yes. For years I used an AEG half-sheet orbital sander for both ivory and
> plastic keytops. I settled on this brand and model after some trial and
> error. The criteria is that it must be very fast -- the AEG was rated at
> 20,000 opm -- and have a relatively small orbit. It should also have a
> fairly large platen. The AEG used 1/2 of a standard sheet of sandpaper
which
> was just right. The felt or foam backing should be fairly firm. I had to
> replace it on my machine, the original was too soft and tended to
round-over
> the sides and edges a bit. You also don't want it too hard or the keytop
> will tend to skate around and be hard to control. A soft and gentle touch
is
> in order here.
>
> Depending on the condition of the keytops in question I started with
> sandpaper anywhere from 120 to 220 grit and end up with either 220 or 320
> depending on how 'polished' I wanted the end result to be. With both ivory
> and plastic I would then lightly buff to satin sheen. I have never liked
the
> high-polish look of genuine plastic keytops, preferring a slightly mat
> finish. If you leave the keytops mat-finished as they come from the
sander,
> however, they mark up easily from fingernails, etc. Lightly buffing them
> leaves them with a satin look, but one that is a bit more durable.
>
> With a bit of practice you can quickly go through a set of keytops leaving
> them with a beautiful, lustrous finish after a light buffing.
>
> I'm not sure if AEG is still sold in the US but, if not, there are
probably
> others. Just make sure it is really fast. Most run about 12,000 opm.
>
> Del
>
>
>
>
>