traveling/traveling/ traveling?

[David Love]

Roger:

I would be interested in seeing the jig for tapering hammers on a table saw 
with the shanks on.  Have you got a drawing or photograph or description you 
can post.

Thanks

David Love

>From: jolly roger <baldyam@sk.sympatico.ca>
>Reply-To: pianotech@ptg.org
>To: pianotech@ptg.org
>Subject: Re: traveling/traveling/ traveling?
>Date: Fri, 23 Feb 2001 22:29:11 -0600
>
>
> >Hey there Roger... was wondering when you would pipe in on this one !..
>Say...
> >have you ever tried this "hang first travel second" approach ?? If so why
>dont
> >you tell us a bit about your experience with it ?
> >--
>
>Hi Richard,
>                  I have tried several methods.
>Here is how I do it today, or until I find a better method that suits me.
>I use only German or Japanese shank's, since I feel they are of a higher
>quality of material and machining, than their North American equivalents.
>(They need far less travelling).
>
>1. Clean the rail of old sand paper in most cases, since old travel paper
>and and various 'gunk' always seems to be inbedded in it.
>2. Very lightly sand with 320grit, and replace sand paper. Thin double
>sided sticky tape is clean and fast.
>
>Side Note: as I'm typing.  I space, rotate, and travel all wippens before I
>start,
>3. Quickly screw on all new shanks with electric driver.  Eye ball spacing
>and rough checking the fit of wip to knuckle as I go. Goes real fast. (
>Tip.Examine the knuckles carefully of you new shank's)
>4. Dry fit the end hammers in each section, checking travel, strike point,
>over centering, and squareness,  ( use a machinist square on the bench to
>check both sides of each hammer)
>Once I'm satisfied, glue samples and recheck in piano.
>5. Travel any obvious bad shanks. Very few needed with high quality parts.
>
>Another side note: weigh and sort shanks before starting.
>6.  I use the Spurlock gig.  As I glue on the rest of the hammers, I am
>checking that the bottom the tails sit squarely on the tray and the hammers
>are parallel with each other.
>7.  Leave 24hrs before doing fine travelling and burn in.  Moisture from
>the glue will often cause a shank to twist a little.
>8.  Any hammers that are more than a few degrees off square should be
>pulled and reglued, any burn in more than this has a way of creeping back.
>9.  Remove and number all hammers and shanks.
>10. Trim shanks on band saw.
>11. Taper hammers as require for clearance and or wight control.  I have a
>good set of jigs to do this chore on the table saw with shanks on.
>12. Tail hammer arc to 1/2 the centre pin to tail radius.
>13.  Reinstall hammers
>14.  At the piano, spacing, fine travel, and srting fit/spacing is done in
>one combined operation.
>Have I ever said grand actions are interactive?.
>15   Now go back and relign the wips, should be just small corrections.
>
>I'm boring and hanging a set of hammers on Monday, so I may change the
>proceedure. <G>
>They will be Abel's so very few problems.  Great shanks.
>
>Regards Roger
>
>
>

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