jig for tapering hammers with shanks on

[David Love]

Roger:

I thought I'd post this again since I should have changed the subject 
heading to be sure you would see it.  Do you have any drawings, photo's, 
descriptions that you can post of the jig for tapering hammers on a table 
saw with the shanks on.  I usually taper prior to hanging but there are many 
occasions where this type of jig would be useful for reducing hammer weight 
after the hammers are hung.

thanks,

David Love


>From: jolly roger <baldyam@sk.sympatico.ca>
>Reply-To: pianotech@ptg.org
>To: pianotech@ptg.org
>Subject: Re: traveling/traveling/ traveling?
>Date: Fri, 23 Feb 2001 22:29:11 -0600
>
>
> >Hey there Roger... was wondering when you would pipe in on this one !..
>Say...
> >have you ever tried this "hang first travel second" approach ?? If so why
>dont
> >you tell us a bit about your experience with it ?
> >--
>
>Hi Richard,
>                  I have tried several methods.
>Here is how I do it today, or until I find a better method that suits me.
>I use only German or Japanese shank's, since I feel they are of a higher
>quality of material and machining, than their North American equivalents.
>(They need far less travelling).
>
>1. Clean the rail of old sand paper in most cases, since old travel paper
>and and various 'gunk' always seems to be inbedded in it.
>2. Very lightly sand with 320grit, and replace sand paper. Thin double
>sided sticky tape is clean and fast.
>
>Side Note: as I'm typing.  I space, rotate, and travel all wippens before I
>start,
>3. Quickly screw on all new shanks with electric driver.  Eye ball spacing
>and rough checking the fit of wip to knuckle as I go. Goes real fast. (
>Tip.Examine the knuckles carefully of you new shank's)
>4. Dry fit the end hammers in each section, checking travel, strike point,
>over centering, and squareness,  ( use a machinist square on the bench to
>check both sides of each hammer)
>Once I'm satisfied, glue samples and recheck in piano.
>5. Travel any obvious bad shanks. Very few needed with high quality parts.
>
>Another side note: weigh and sort shanks before starting.
>6.  I use the Spurlock gig.  As I glue on the rest of the hammers, I am
>checking that the bottom the tails sit squarely on the tray and the hammers
>are parallel with each other.
>7.  Leave 24hrs before doing fine travelling and burn in.  Moisture from
>the glue will often cause a shank to twist a little.
>8.  Any hammers that are more than a few degrees off square should be
>pulled and reglued, any burn in more than this has a way of creeping back.
>9.  Remove and number all hammers and shanks.
>10. Trim shanks on band saw.
>11. Taper hammers as require for clearance and or wight control.  I have a
>good set of jigs to do this chore on the table saw with shanks on.
>12. Tail hammer arc to 1/2 the centre pin to tail radius.
>13.  Reinstall hammers
>14.  At the piano, spacing, fine travel, and srting fit/spacing is done in
>one combined operation.
>Have I ever said grand actions are interactive?.
>15   Now go back and relign the wips, should be just small corrections.
>
>I'm boring and hanging a set of hammers on Monday, so I may change the
>proceedure. <G>
>They will be Abel's so very few problems.  Great shanks.
>
>Regards Roger
>
>
>

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