Pichel upright (birdcage)

[Graeme Harvey]

Hi Patrick,


> Yesterday I worked on a Pichel upright piano serial number 3531, made in
> Berlin, with an over-damper action (that's the respectful term for a
> birdcage, right?).

We call them overdampers as a rule here in NZ

> It's not listed in Pierce -- could someone with an European piano atlas
> look it up & tell me when it was manufactured?

Sorry I can't help here.

> It's in nice condition -- fantastic burled veneer etc. Apparently a very
> late example of an over-damper system.

So much stunning work on the case and an outdated action was then fitted,
because, I'm told the manufacturer was either unwilling or unable to use the
latest under damped system due to either patent restrictions or exorbitant
royalties placed on the "latest design" by those who developed it.

>
> It was 150-200 cents flat when I got to it; I pulled it up to 100 cents
> flat. Still managed to break a couple of high treble strings.

I've pulled lots of these to A440, after checking plank, plate structure
etc.
Strings are easy to replace in treble, though often I avoid starting if they
are rough to start with.
>
> Anyone have any advice specific to working on this Pichel? I need to
> pull the action to fix the strings, and space hammers (the hammer
> flanges are screwed to the interior side of the action rail).

Spacing is easy by pushing a blade down between flanges from the from the
front, or setting some samples and pulling the action and working from the
back.

> Is this an example of an action which unscrews and slides out of the
> piano, keybed & all? I don't often work on "cottage pianos" (though this
> one is much better than the typical "birdcage piano") -- I couldn't
> figure out how to remove the action!

If the action doesn't budge once the centre action nut is removed and metal
lock thingees at each end are released then it is likely to be a tray
action. These are easy to remove by lifting out a few keys to access the
screws in the balance rail that locks the entire tray (key frame and action)
to the keybed. (Sometimes the screw position in drawn on the key stick under
which the screw is located)
Usually there are 4 or 5 screws, one at each end and a couple through the
middle.
Then the whole assembly, including cheek blocks slides forward and can be
lifted out.
>
> The customer has strong sentimental attachments (mother in law brought
> it over when she moved to the States 50 years ago etc.), so I need to
> get it fixed up!

Huh :) The older the piano the stronger the attachment I find. Also the
worse the piano the stronger the attachment.
Good luck. I try to avoid these where possible these days but occasionally
can't.


Regards,

Graeme Harvey
New Plymouth
New Zealand