---------------------- multipart/alternative attachment At 09:29 AM 10/14/2001 -0400, you wrote: >List, >Since the thread has been keytops, I would appreciate some input. I just >started doing my own keytops with the aid of an Olsland machine. I >acquired the planer/resurfacer and the notching machine. >The question I have is seems to be finding the safest and best way to >route down the the long edges. Some use a laminate router bit with guide >and some use a sanding disc. >What's the consensus out there? >Also what is the keytop cement of choice. I was introduced to using >acetone and a melted plastic keytop made into a honey viscosity >consistently. Within 30 seconds the bond is strong. The downside is you >have to be extremely careful not to transfer any acetone anywhere near the >surface of the key or the finish will be marred. >So bring it on. Would be interested in your comments on learning the >tricks of the trade. >Tom Servinsky,RPT For glue, I use PVC-E. This makes a flexible joint to allow for the different expansion and contraction rates of the joined materials. Melting the keytop to the keystick with the acetone/plastic mixture may cause the keytop to crack when the wood expands with a humidity increase while the plastic remains rigid. The PVC-E glue also wipes off the surface without etching. I prefer routing or filing the edges over the sanding disc. It is too easy to remove too much material with a sander. Regards, Jon Page, piano technician Harwich Port, Cape Cod, Mass. mailto:jonpage2001@mediaone.net http://www.stanwoodpiano.com ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ---------------------- multipart/alternative attachment An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: https://www.moypiano.com/ptg/pianotech.php/attachments/8a/ce/33/e2/attachment.htm ---------------------- multipart/alternative attachment--
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