keytops (Question)

[Tom Servinsky]

You can get the .001" punchings from Yamaha as well.

Tom Servinsky,RPT
----- Original Message -----
From: "Farrell" <mfarrel2@tampabay.rr.com>
To: <pianotech@ptg.org>
Sent: Tuesday, October 16, 2001 7:18 AM
Subject: Re: keytops (Question)


> I recently put a new keybed in a Knabe grand. It also had a termite eaten
> (weakened) and warped keyframe. When I went to level the keys I had quite
a
> bit of trouble. That was when I decided to purchase Carl Meyer's key
> leveling system. I tried that. It worked quite a bit better, but they were
> still not quite level - I could see by eye that some were still off. I was
> getting very frustrated and wondering if my keybed was screwed up.
>
> What it turned out to be - those few (actually quite a few) remaining
> hard-to-level keys - after taking the keys out and examining them
closely -
> it was the keytops that were far, far from level. They were wavy. High
here,
> low there, sloping over here on this one (I could get height variations of
> up to 0.025" on an individual keytop, depending on where I put the
leveling
> stick). I would level with my leveling bar over the keypin position, and
> look at the front edge of the keys to see how nice and level they were and
> they would be all over the place.
>
> I'm using Carl's key leveling system on an old Decker grand right now
> (equipped with a non-chewed or warped action frame) and let me tell you,
> those keys are level!
>
> Amazing what flat keytops can do for leveling them!  :-)
>
> Incidentally, Pianotek has the 0.001" center rail punchings now. I had
only
> used down to 0.003" before. Wow, that thin piece can really fine-tune your
> key leveling. And Carl, your stick works great, even down to this
accuracy -
> very reproducible. When a key is 0.001" low, you can push it up against
the
> stick, and you don't really even see it move, but you can hear it click
> against the metal stick - then you know a 0.001" punching will get you
where
> you want to be!
>
> Terry Farrell
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Brian Trout" <grandrestorations@yahoo.com>
> To: <pianotech@ptg.org>
> Sent: Monday, October 15, 2001 8:39 AM
> Subject: Re: keytops (Question)
>
>
> > Hi Richard,
> >
> > Having been away from the process for a bit, my
> > memory may be fuzzy...but...
> >
> > I do remember, even with the application of heat
> > from an iron, there were more times than I'd have
> > liked when part of the wood came off with the
> > keytop.
> >
> > And, since many people are interested in keeping
> > the overall height of the key the same, (and also
> > length, with regard to the keyfront) before and
> > after recovery,  (sounds like there might be a
> > support group in there somewhere, huh?
> > <chuckle>...sorry..., I guess recovering is the
> > correct word), the whole process of removing the
> > old material can go right along with the process
> > of milling out that little bit of wood that needs
> > to come off in order to preserve the original
> > dimensions.
> >
> > As a practical matter, I've seen both extremes.
> > I've seen keys that it really didn't make much
> > difference that no one planed down the extra wood
> > to keep the dimensions.  And I've seen keys that
> > would have obviously fit into the piano much
> > better if they had been planed to fit as the
> > originals did.
> >
> > Thus, the idea...  make 'em the same size as they
> > were.  If they fit before, they'll fit after.
> >
> > My $0.02... if it's even worth that... ;-)
> >
> > Take care, Ric.
> >
> > Brian T.
> >
> >
> >
> > =====
> > Brian Trout
> > Grand Restorations
> > 3090 Gause Blvd., #202
> > Slidell, LA  70461
> > 985-649-2700
> > GrandRestorations@yahoo.com
> >
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