Keyboard frame question

[Isaac OLEG SIMANOT]

Thanks, Roger, for all these.

I was surprised some time ago to be told by the S&S shop headquarter, that
the frame had to be bedded without the blocks.

My guess is that if you screw the block, you tend to not screw enough the
extreme bolts, but not reaaly sure of that.

Isaac

> -----Message d'origine-----
> De : owner-pianotech@ptg.org [mailto:owner-pianotech@ptg.org]De la part
> de jolly roger
> Envoyé : dimanche 21 octobre 2001 07:59
> À : pianotech@ptg.org
> Objet : Re: Keyboard frame question
>
>
> >
> >Can you tell me in what order you screw the frame on S&S,
> >is the order important ?
>
> Hi Issac,
>                I can share my method, that has served me well.
>
> 1.  Back out all glide bolts.
> 2.  Bed the back frame.
> 3.  Lift up on the action stack to make sure there is not any lift up to
> the dags.  Veneer back frame and fit as required.
> 4.  Bed and fit front frame, as required.
> 5   Install cheek blocks.
> 6.  Using a Davis key leveller, set the centre glide bolt so it just
> contacts the bed.
> 7.  Work out wards as above.
> 8.  Recheck and fine tune all bolts.
> 9.  Depress unicorda, and recheck all bedding.   If depressions under the
> bolts are are causing a problem, I fill them with 5min epoxy.  Use a piece
> of glass to scrape excess to ensure a flush level surface, before
> the epoxy
> gels, about a 2min wait.  Then reset the bolts again.
>
> >with the last job I've done I had to change the entire action
> frame ,I had
> >to rethink the way the frame is adapted to the keyboard, and I
> discover I am
> >not sure if the extremes center feet (of the action frame) are
> to be a tad
> >higher in order to help the keyboard extremity to be springy
> (you know the
> >little play under the blocks).
>
> With newer frames that have a springy front rail,  it is important to have
> the the cheek blocks tightened to set the glides. Most older older
> Steinways in our area the front rail tends to be flat and stable.  I have
> no problems leaving well alone.
> >
> >I had one side of my keyboard not showing enough play after
> installing the
> >new action frame. Is it the keyboard front rail which is not right, so I
> >could sand it to have some pressure given with the block, or are
> the wedges
> >or action frame feet at a bad level ? (the back of the action is
> nicely in
> >contact everywhere )
>
> By having the glide bolts up and off the keybed, you can easily see where
> you have the problem.
>
> >
> >Beside, I am looking for a good method to evaluate if the back
> of the keys
> >are at the correct height, I've made the mistake on my D and had to put a
> >lot of paper balance punching to obtain the 65 -67 mm dimension
> in the front
> >under the ivories , and then I discover the back of the keyboard was too
> >low,   dampers late, backcheck angle to be re-set, shanks almost on the
> >cushions when 47 mm hammer travel,.
>
> It is not unusual for manufacturers to alter key height, to suit frame
> thickness, or case parts.
> Frame thickness, backrail felt, balance rail, are all interactive.  Not
> always easy to determine which one to work with.
> Shimming the back rail felt under mid C to E, and doing a trial regulation
> will give many clues of where to go.
>
> Hope this helps some.
>
> Roger
>
> .
> >
> >I may have realized sooner that I was to shim under the rest
> felt on the key
> >frame.
> >
> >Can the space between the  shank rest felt be a good evaluation method of
> >the correct height of the back of the key ( at first does not
> look to be so
> >much related, but I am under this impression) ?
> >
> >I know we can check the whippen heel balance pin whippen pin
> alignment, but
> >even with an elastic thread I found it very difficult to do (not
> really the
> >same thing either).
> >
> >Any input will be appreciated.
> >
> >
> >Kind regards.
> >
> >Isaac
> >
>
>