Tuning Pin Height by Danair

[Farrell]

Hi Bill. I was one of those who posted on this wonderful tool. I find your
method of getting consistent pin height intriguing. It sounds as though you
are attaching some device that physically stops the nailer from pounding
further than the desired depth. I have attached a thingee to my nailer and
visually observed that the nailer was at the desired height. Your method
sounds more definitive. Can you please describe exactly where and how you
attach exactly what to your nailer to get it to stop at height X? Got a
picture? Thanks.

Terry Farrell

----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill Ballard" <yardbird@pop.vermontel.net>
To: <pianotech@ptg.org>
Sent: Friday, October 26, 2001 10:35 PM
Subject: Tuning Pin Height by Danair


> List,
>
> I just did my first stringing with the pneumatic nailer (not a
> Danair, but a Taiwanese knock-off by Master Fastener), and I have the
> same response as everyone else: Where have you been all my life?
>
> I also found that the finished pin height was real easy to get out of
> this nailer. I seem to remember that this subject has already come
> up, by I couldn't find it in the archives. So stop me if you've heard
> this one before. Start with the measurement of how far retracted the
> piston rod needs to be to activate the valve, and that's how tall the
> height gage needs to be. Let the nailer drive the pin in until the
> point where the height gage reaches the plate. Because the nailer can
> go no further down, the piston will no longer activate the valve. It
> took me ten minutes to punch in this finished height from treble to
> bass (including the time to move the pinblock support).
>
> Which open up the possibility of setting the finished height at the
> same moment the pin first gets driven in, ie.: wind the coil on the
> pin, drive the pin in and (if it's the second pin on that string) put
> the wire on initial tension while lifting the coil, then come back
> with the nailer and drive to height and do a quick final check on the
> coil. (The aforementioned being done for both pins on that  string.)
> Ordinarily the pin height (as I do it with an upright hammershank
> trimmed to proper length and fastened to a tuning pin punch with hose
> clamps) is done in a second pass after spacing the strings at the
> capo, and front string rests.
>
> Once again, I thought I heard something in during the last round or
> two of discussion on palm nailers about setting them up to do pin
> height. I found it surprisingly easy.
>
> Bill Ballard RPT
> NH Chapter, P.T.G.
>
> "Filing the bridgepins sure puts a sparkle on the restringing, but is
> best done before the plate is re-installed"
>      ...........recent shop journal entry
> ++++++++++++++++++++
>