Hi, David, Can't resist answering about the Steinway, as I am in the final stages of a similarly designed 7'3" 1878 Steinway. About the Wissner, there was a thread recently. The Wissners I have serviced seemed like Steinway knockoffs, but the one I know best had been given a new block by another tech, when it also needed a new board. It basically had no 5th and 6th octave. Would love to put a new board in it. << Encountered two interesting pianos today. One was a Wissner 7' grand. Seems to be a well designed piano, plate design reminds me of a MH. Anybody know anything about these. Second, I encountered an 1877 S&S D. Eighty eight notes, open faced pinblock that slanted down toward the agraffes which ran all the way to note 88. Couple of questions. I couldn't tell where or how the plate was attached to the front of the piano. It almost seemed as if the pinblock overlapped the front of the plate or is mortised into and under the stretcher which is very heavy and thick. What's that all about? >> Yep. This is a "Style 4" Steinway, consistent in design with the pre-modern Steinways built for over a decade (Style 1, 2, 3, 4 very roughly correspond to modern models A, B, C, D in length, so Steinway now refers to them by letter designation, although I have not seen letter references in writing from the period.) The plate flange has a "horizontal aspect" (really angled same as the open face portion of the pinblock), so there are two vertical flanges, although the front, top flange is quite thin. The top of this is where the duplexing is cast (or rests, depending on the piano). Pinblock is glued and bolted to a shelf, then the cabinet is built tightly over the pinblock to make it a mortised pinblock without a shelf. The stretcher is designed to control the pinblock's rotation, which it does poorly. There is only one row of screws fastening the pinblock to the plate. In some respects this design is similar to the Bechstein design which Bob Hohf discusses in three Journal articles of about 1996/7 - similar in the type of pinblock/plate flange relationship, but different in that the Bechstein has a perimeter plate which extends over the pinblock, and is designed to contain the pinblock's rotation but doesn't always do successfully, resulting in strut cracks on the underside, in back of the flange. I understand this has happened on many of the 3/4 plate Steinways, too, and hope to reduce the chance of this by inserting a 1/2"x 3" cold roll steel bar into the stretcher/pinblock structure. On my Style 2 the horizontal glue joint between the stretcher and pinblock was separated for the middle 3/4. << What pitch are these pianos designed for. The piano had been restrung. Sloppy job with the coils overlapping and a good 1/2" plus off the block.>> Amazing, defeats the purpose of the open face block! My Style 2 had a short scale, particularly bad in the top 3 octaves. Either the piano needed to be tuned at a higher pitch, which may have been the intention (thus Steinway's A457 pitch in that time period), or it used more flexible wire with less carbon content. I wonder if there wasn't a little of both going on. We ran the numbers on PScale and moved the bridge accordingly, while installing a new board. <<The owners are considering restoring it and it will need a new board. I notice also that the soundboard does not go all the way to the bass corner of the piano. It is cut in at a 45 degree angle with a thick piece of wood glued to the edge. Another triangular piece of wood fills the void in the corner with a number of heavy bolts that seem to be adjustable in order to apply pressure to the edge of the board (don't know how well I described that).>> This purpose of this design is similar to the shortlived Steinway double-iron frame vertical piano from the 1860's and early '70's. The patents are interesting to read (as usual for the period), arguing that by keeping force on the perimeter of the soundboard, the best tone can be produced. However, Steinway soon abandoned the idea in the modern A/B/C/D designs of 1878-1882 (in favor of the "acoustic dowels?"). My Style 2 does not have the perimeter flange/bolt system. I would like to see one which is has it, properly restored. Another example of that design was the Julius Bauer grand. Bauer got a patent for it too, although it was basically the Steinway double-iron frame design in a grand piano. Funny thing, like many of these old Steinways, many Bauers have the design without the actual bolts. <<The owners are considering a full restoration job and the piano will need a new board and block. Two initial questions: What is the general nature of the block/plate construction and fit? >> As described above. I agree with Bob Hohf on using epoxy for an extremely snug fit with no "give." I have taken many photos of my Style 2, some of the side view of the stretcher and pinblock, showing the way it was constructed. It seems clear that the selection and placement of quartersawn planks was to rigidize the stretcher as much as possible to assist in retaining the pinblock's position as the tuning pin/string force rotated the pinblock at the flange; a steel or cast iron bar seems to me to get more control of this, although I am not sure it is enough, either. These pinblocks rotate up at the front and down at the flange. <<And is the soundboard design I have attempted to describe worth trying to duplicate?>> Unless you hire Del to redesign it. I remember Del expressing a fondness for those old board designs with the cutoff bars. He and others may have something to say about the difference a lower pitch might make. I will have my new board, which duplicates the old, strung up pretty soon, and will know more then. <<Remarkably, the action design seems that it will easily accommodate a modern retrofit.>> But the back action is very 19th century. No sockets, splitting levers. At least a socket retrofit is necessary; a sostenuto retrofit (I assume it's a two pedal piano) would require refitting a new action, plus other modifications. <<And agraffes all the way to the top!!! Why did they give that up? No leaky, bleedy, buzzy stuff at the top even after all these years.>> Well, the Style _ pianos I have seen have all had a duplex scale with the agraffes up to the top, and an even lower angle than the modern capo type treble! Some duplexes were cast into the plate (like mine), others had brass inserts (but the same basic design as my cast duplex). There was plenty of leakage, too much, it seemed to me. By slightly increasing the angle with a small halfround brass insert the tone usually improved. I didn't like the additional accumulated stress this might have exerted on the plate/pinblock/strut assembly, and did not run any numbers to calculate what the increased force would be, but will probably do more speculating about this when I string up the piano. <<Unfortunately, I think I know the answer the this question. $$$!>> No kidding. This will definitely make you feel like a hobbyist unless you charge plenty, and warn the client of the risks, collecting a substantial non-refundable deposit. But I have heard of excellent examples of these pianos. If the cabinet hasn't been "modernized" it should be pretty valuable, helping to justify the expense. Also, the cabinet is mortised, not continuous rim. More veneering problems at sharp corners, but where you live the structure might have survived quite well! Tell us about it if you do the job! Bill Shull
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