This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ---------------------- multipart/alternative attachment Well I'm not sure what Ron O. does exactly, but I always burnish the top = with the shaft of large screwdriver or some such piece of metal. Hold = the handle and the blade and massage the top of the bridge to compress = the fibers and increase the density a bit. These days I'm using a water = thin epoxy to coat the top of the bridge whether I'm recapping or = repinning and renotching. =20 David Love ----- Original Message -----=20 From: Erwinspiano@AOL.COM=20 To: pianotech@ptg.org=20 Sent: April 06, 2002 12:02 PM Subject: Re: Tallow! In a message dated 4/6/2002 9:39:21 AM Pacific Standard Time, = davidlovepianos@earthlink.net writes: Subj:Re: Tallow!=20 Date:4/6/2002 9:39:21 AM Pacific Standard Time From:davidlovepianos@earthlink.net Reply-to:pianotech@ptg.org To:pianotech@ptg.org Sent from the Internet=20 David I like this idea I just couldn't recall the details. Rubs = it with what or do you mean rubs it out after the finish is on. Bob Hof = wrote in ptj that likes to saturate his new bridge tops with shellac = first which hardens and supports wood fibers. Any one who has used thin = epoxy or shellac on maple knows how porous it actually is >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>Dale>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Dale: Check out Ron Overs' bridge top method. I think he rubs it down to = harden it and just puts a clear finish on the top and lets it go at = that. You could also put a thin coat of water thin epoxy to seal and = harden it. David Love ---------------------- multipart/alternative attachment An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: https://www.moypiano.com/ptg/pianotech.php/attachments/76/1b/e3/77/attachment.htm ---------------------- multipart/alternative attachment--
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