>This brings up an interesting question. Best to redrill and go up a pin >size? Or to use the original pin size. I have gone original size, and >there was a fair bit of slop in the fit between hole and pin (hammering >pin in was not needed - pin just slid right it - maybe one tap to seat). I've done both. If there's room on the bridge and the originals were #6, I'll drill and go to #7 just because I don't think #6 is a stiff enough pin. I've gone from #7 to #8 in the tenor too. I've also epoxied pins into a quite sloppy fit in the cap with no obvious problems except epoxy cleanup. >I wonder what the ramifications of that will be in the long run? I'd guess the landfill termites will eat the epoxy impregnated wood last, if at all. > But in most > > instances, do we know just how extensive that maze of subterranean > > cracks is, and how much epoxy (above and beyond the amount necessary > > for the gap filling film) we'll need in the pin holes? > >I have had a few that while hammering one bridge pin in, you get a gusher >of epoxy squirting out another pin hole. These were on kinda junky pianos. >I suspect that if this were a fine piano, one might want to think twice >about the overall integrity of the bridge if you observed this happening. Ok guys, how do we know what condition the bridge root is really in until the excess epoxy disappearing into the voids without coming up elsewhere (or gushing up elsewhere) tells us? And if you observe something disturbing during the epoxying of the bridge pins in that fine piano, I suppose you immediately stop and begin removing the bridge for replacement? Or will you get as much epoxy in there as you can to try to improve it's integrity and press on? Ron N
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