Epoxy of Bridges/Carls questions

[Joseph Garrett]

Carl,
When a piece of wood is "winded" or warped, it will always have that built
in tension. You can glue, clamp and whatever til the cows come home and it
will simply end up in a failure. Having been into woodworking ALL of my
life, this has been my experience. Unless the bridge has split out so bad as
it is touching the plate, then forget what it's shape is. The "shape" that
is important is the termination point. If it is a "major" split bridge, of
course, the best choice to to re-cap or even replace completely. That is
always my first choice. I have been making bridges, for the area
technicians, for a long time and bet they will attest to the quality of
sound that they got out of a new bridge. (No I'm not looking for kudos, just
would like someone else to attest to the better sound that is derived by
doing the bridge the right way.)
As for CA glue, I have interviewed many, (lost count), hobby shops, etc.,
that handle the glue and use it a lot. They are definately in agreement that
CA does have a shelf life and a bonding life. I've tried it on a few things
and find it more difficult, (in the long run), than using the proper glue
for the job. My motto is: if you never want it to come apart and it's wood,
then use the appropriate WOOD GLUE. If consider that the part will EVER need
to be refurbished, replace or repaired, then use HIDE GLUE. If you are
gluing a plastic or something not of a natural substance then WELD IT, ZAP
IT or What ever.
The Address for the Lord Corporation is:
Lord Corporation
Weymouth Industrial Park
East Weymouth, MA, 02189
(617) 337-6070 or (781) 337-6075 Ext.614
You do have to buy a fairly large quantity, but that's ok because it will
keep for up to 2 years. (Probably longer if you refrigerate it.
Regards,
Joe Garrett, RPT, (Oregon)(The Ducks Rule!)