Water-Base Lacquer

[Erwinspiano@AOL.COM]

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In a message dated 6/6/2002 8:19:19 AM Pacific Standard Time, Erwinspiano 
writes:


> Subj:Re: Water-Base Lacquer 
> Date:6/6/2002 8:19:19 AM Pacific Standard Time
> From:<A HREF="mailto:Erwinspiano">Erwinspiano</A>
> To:<A HREF="mailto:pianotech@ptg.org">pianotech@ptg.org</A>
> 
> 
> 
> In a message dated 6/6/2002 6:28:26 AM Pacific Standard Time, 
> gnewell@ameritech.net writes:
> 
> 
> >> Subj:Re: Water-Base Lacquer 
>> Date:6/6/2002 6:28:26 AM Pacific Standard Time
>> From:<A HREF="mailto:gnewell@ameritech.net">gnewell@ameritech.net</A>
>> Reply-to:<A HREF="mailto:pianotech@ptg.org">pianotech@ptg.org</A>
>> To:<A HREF="mailto:pianotech@ptg.org">pianotech@ptg.org</A>
>> Sent from the Internet 
>> 
>>         Gregg
> 
>        As you've discovered as well as I mixing stain in grain filler and 
> appling directly to the wood is the fastest way I lnow to get a muddy 
> finish that I know of. I've been reading all these post and gathering info. 
> in an attempt to invision swithing from solvent base to water base. My 
> biggest concern is clarity of the finish (wood of course)
>    Our typical wood finish I'm striving for as much clarity as possible. 
>   A couple of steps in my current process that allows this I hope are 
> duplicatable with water base.
>   1.  Strip sand patch 
>    2. Yes I use primarily a water dye because water dyes are extremely 
> color fast. I personally don't find the small amount of grain raising is an 
> issue in my procedure. I stain on the bare wood as does everyone. Let dry.  
> I then spray on two thin coats of gloss lacquer to seal in the stain. This 
> fills the pores as well.
>   3.I then apply the darkest grain filler I can get or make with burlap. 
> Sometimes applying twice if the grain is deep. I want to wipe off any undue 
> residue. 
> 4. the grain filler dries overnight for hardness then lightly sand off any 
> haze being careful not to sand through to the color.
> 5. Once this is accomplished building up of sealer till it can be block 
> sanded flat. My goal is to leave no more sealer than needed and still have 
> a very flat and filled surface.
> 6 Apply 2 to 4 top coats gloss lacquer. Let cure and sand flat with 600 
> paper. Then rub with steel wool and other stuff to get the desired sheen.
>   This has always produced a very clear finish for our clients and I'm 
> hoping that a similar procedure is applicable to the water base 
> products.Does any body have a similar process with water base and if so 
> would the clarity of the finished process be described as translucent. My 
> goal is to be able to loof right through the lacquer coats and see the wood 
> grain in all its vibrany
> >>>Dale Erwin>>
> 
> >> 
>> Ever so cool!!! These are good tips! I was told once upon a time to add 
>> the stain or dye to the filler (water based paste) and I'm not greatly 
>> pleased with how it comes out. A mist coat of sealer might help it not get 
>> too blotchy. The sealer I used also seemed to come out of the pores when I 
>> lightly sand. It there something I can do to prevent all that reapplying?
>> Very glad to hear of your upcoming articles!!!
>> 
>> Greg 
> 


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