At 05:01 PM 6/6/2002 -0400, you wrote: >OK this sounds understandable. Now, how about the difference between a >sanding sealer and something else like ... say ... shellac. I have been >told that a coat of shellac will even out how wood takes stain. Do you >find this to be the case? If so, what about when grain filler is used? >Does that change anything? Also, do water based filler take stain as well >as other filler types? My experience with Rockler water based filler is >that it doesn't take stain very well. The color contrast was too great for >my liking. > >Greg When using different materials for different coats, there is a longer 'dry time' in between. Cure rates and all that. When using shellac as a sealer, a week or two has to pass before topcoating with lacquer or a water-based material. Sealers formulated to work with the topcoats need only dry overnight but I prefer two days; it powders better. . . for those who don't refinish, it sands better. You need to fill the pores with a coloured filler, the filler won't accept stain. Black filler for the likes of mahogany and walnut, lighter tones for lighter woods. As far as the evening-out of the color with a prior sealer application, the more open pores would accept the material while the denser ares would repel the sealer thus creating a more equal absorption rate. You can do the same thing by wiping the surface with water and then the stain; the higher absorption areas will hold more water and repel that much more stain. But water is not something you want to put on the wood because it will raise the grain and require judicious sanding not to remove too much of the applied stain, especially to the high spots. As with anything, practice and experience . . . Regards, Jon Page, piano technician Harwich Port, Cape Cod, Mass. mailto:jonpage@attbi.com ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
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