---------------------- multipart/alternative attachment In a message dated 6/18/2002 5:29:05 PM Pacific Standard Time, rinkyd@pacbell.net writes: > Hi Phil I use the small Japanese pull saw by shark. I do all my boring tapering tailing prep and hammer weights prior to hanging. Once hung they don't come off again. I turn the action over backwards with the strike point against the table. I then clamp on a shank clamp with a facing of rubber or cork and clamp them tight. I then use a dedicated to shank trimming only blade and simply saw at and angle or as straight as I can slowly sawing thru one or more shanks at a time until all are amputated. Then I move the jig etc.and do the rest. The small amount of shank left is easily removed with a small belt sander with the shanks propped up as close to the shank as possible. This whole procedure gives a factory looking finish job and the belt sanding can smooth up small irregularities in the tail alignment that occur in the hanging process. It takes about 15 minutes. I don't however like this job but I know of no other way that suits my protocol. Lately I'm not likin a lot of jobs but hey it's summer. Best--- Dale Erwin PS tthe rotary dremel is scary to me I've tried it. I like my fingers. > > I would love to hear some of the methods for trimming excess grand shanks. > It's always been a struggle for me. I've used hand jigsaws, small drum > sanders, flexblades from Bill Spurlock, etc. Years ago I had a dremel > rotary > saw blade that worked well, but it seems to be no longer available. How do > you do it? > > Thanks > > Phil Frankenberg > Chico Ca. ---------------------- multipart/alternative attachment An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: https://www.moypiano.com/ptg/pianotech.php/attachments/6c/d1/b9/9a/attachment.htm ---------------------- multipart/alternative attachment--
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