Shank excess

[Kdivad@AOL.COM]

In a message dated Wed, 19 Jun 2002  1:14:42 AM Eastern Daylight Time, nicho@lascruces.com writes:

> 
> 
> Phil,
>         Using a standard 20" shank clamp and 50 grit (or tired 36 grit)on 
> a 4-6" air (or electric) right angle rotary grinder/sander, the entire 
> operation of removing shank ends and perfectly shaping the tails is a dusty 
> 10 minutes. Nicely squared to the back checks, no burn marks, felt lines 
> that avoid the custom boring, and no checkering files needed.
>         Under 50 bucks for the grinder/sander. 'Bout the same for the 
> clamp.  Air is a lot quieter. For more bucks a Roto-Zip with a right angle 
> attachment works, and lets you see the progress easily, and can be used for 
> lots of other stuff. (Basically a Dremel on steroids)
>         Register for the rebuilding skills workshop in Chicago and see it 
> again. Last year we dusted half the room! (and made a bit of noise, 
> too..... sorry)
>    I didn't invent this method, but I've used no other since.
> 
> Guy Nichols, RPT
> Ft. Stinkin' Desert, NM
> 
> At 04:22 PM 6/18/02 -0500, you wrote:
> >I would love to hear some of the methods for trimming excess grand shanks.
> >It's always been a struggle for me. I've used hand jigsaws, small drum
> >sanders, flexblades from Bill Spurlock, etc. Years ago I had a dremel rotary
> >saw blade that worked well, but it seems to be no longer available. How do
> >you do it?
> >
> >Thanks
> >
> >Phil Frankenberg
> >Chico Ca.
> 
> "Things are more like they are now than they ever were 
> before."
>         -Former U.S. President Dwight D. Eisenhower

Hello Guy, how do you accurately get the right radius with your method?
David Koelzer
DFW