Separated back, part 2

[Farrell]

That is exactly what I did to my 1914 Starr Remington upright - plus I slopped some Tightbond in the cracks. Whereas, I feel this should provide and adequate repair, I do feel the need to say that I never was able to tune that piano - only piano that I was never able to get control of - pitch would wander all over. I really don't know if the pitch instability was related to the pinblock separation or not.

Didn't really help much, did it. Oh well. Misery, company, and all that.

Terry Farrell
  
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Clyde Hollinger" <cedel@supernet.com>
To: <pianotech@ptg.org>
Sent: Friday, June 21, 2002 4:19 PM
Subject: Separated back, part 2


> Friends,
> 
> A couple weeks ago I asked your opinion on using epoxy without bolts on
> a separated back.  Now I need help on just the opposite.
> 
> Today I serviced a 1931 Starr Remington upright with a separated back.
> For some reason this problem escaped me when I tuned it two times
> previously.  Money is a problem for the client, so two years ago I tuned
> it where it was (50c flat), last year I replaced all bridle straps and
> tuned (40c flat), and recommended that this year the piano get a
> pitchraise and tune.  Then I noticed the separated back problem.  Uh-oh.
> 
> The board glued to the top of the piano above the pinblock (but under
> the lid) is split also, and partly loose, I suppose.  But it greatly
> increases the difficulty and cost of this job if I break off that board
> to get epoxy into the cravasses.  Do you think I will have a successful
> repair if I use bolts only?  I would pull the back together with clamps,
> drill, bolt, remove clamps, leave it at that.  That's what I would like
> to try if you think it will work.  What think ye?  Anyone try this?
> Results?
> 
> Regards, Clyde
> 
>