---------------------- multipart/alternative attachment I prefer to mix the bronze powder in a separate container with the lacquer then pour it through a filter cone. Then pour thinner through the cone. Use a retarder to slow the drying process so the finish will flow out well and not be grainy or orange peel. The clear topcoat should have a lot of thinner and retarder to really get a smooth finish. It takes longer to dry but worth the wait. Don't rub out. For lettering, I use a black waterbased acrylic (PianoLac). Black lacquer is not forgiving in the event of a mistake. Jon Page At 05:57 AM 3/20/2002 -0500, you wrote: >Hi Hazen - > >Truthfully, I have never even measured how much bronze powder I mix into >the lacquer. Not very scientific, I know, but I just stir it into the gun >cup till it looks right. Start with a couple tablespoons in your quart >cup of lacquer, see how gold it looks stirred up, and test spray on a >white piece of paper. I plan on two coats of gold anyway, so if there is >a slight transluscence to the color, that is fine. It is worth swirling >your gun around quite often during application to keep the bronze from >falling out of suspension. > >I use water-based lacquers for all wood finishing, but still use the >nitrocellulose lacquer for spraying plates. I just go to my local Sherwin >Williams store and use their "medium rubbed water-white lacquer" ( or >something like that). For plates, I prefer satin over gloss, because it >is warmer and more forgiving to the eye when there are imperfections in >the plate surface. Although I rub out all finishes I apply to wood, and I >like the woolwax you referred to, I would not recommend trying to rub down >a gloss finish to satin applied to a piano plate. There are WAY too many >small crevices -- around lettering, hitch pins, agraffes, etc. -- that >would be nearly impossible to rub out uniformly. Unless you WANT a gloss >finish, I would use satin, at least for the clear top coats, if you decide >to go that route. Ask your supplier if he has some flatting agent for his >gloss lacquer (if he doesn't sell satin sheen already) or get his >assistance acquiring some. You can add this to your gloss lacquer to get >any degree of flatting of the sheen you like. DO follow the directions >very carefully, and mix very thoroughly. > >Mark Potter ><mailto:bases-loaded@juno.com>bases-loaded@juno.com > >On Tue, 19 Mar 2002 23:28:10 EST ><mailto:HazenBannister@cs.com>HazenBannister@cs.com writes: >>Tommy,Mark,List, >>I appreciate your replys,and yes I have a dedicated spray room,and >>equipment,in my shop. >>What is the ratio,mix for the bronze powder.Also,where do you get your >>paint,lacquer and other refinishing materials?I get mine from a company >>called Carolina Refinishing,and would love to compare quality&prices from >>someone else.Also,I have been getting a gloss lacquer(it's what he >>has),and wool waxing to get a satin finish.Do you buy a satin laquer,or >>do the same? >>Thanks again, >>Hazen Bannister >> ---------------------- multipart/alternative attachment An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: https://www.moypiano.com/ptg/pianotech.php/attachments/3b/10/8f/41/attachment.htm ---------------------- multipart/alternative attachment--
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