David, Am I missing something? Why not just turn up the "tuning pin" bedding screws little by little, while tapping on them with your palm, until you hear a knocking? Do it on all of them, then go back and turn them down just enough to stop the knocking. With the cheek blocks screwed in, of course. :-) Avery At 05:25 PM 04/29/03 -0700, you wrote: >On a Steinway the bedding should be done with the cheek blocks screwed >down. That may solve your problem. If the block bears down to much and >restricts the use of the una corda pedal you can shim the front of the >cheek block with some card stock. You may notice that the front of the >blocks are already shimmed, many are. A simple way to check the bedding >is to press on the glide screws with your wrench and you will see the keys >dip slightly if the glide is not bedded. First raise all the glides so >you get some movement with each one. Then, starting from the middle >working out, wedge your hand up underneath between the pinblock and the >wrench which is resting on top of the glide bolt , and by cupping your >hand you can flex the key bed downward. You will see the keys dip >slightly. You can put a Jaras leveler on the white keys if you have one >which will make it easier to see&nbs! >p;movement. When the movement stops go to the next one. Go back through >again to double check. It's a lot faster than sliding paper around and it >works just fine. You should be able to bed the key frame in a few minutes. > >David Love ><mailto:davidlovepianos@earthlink.net>davidlovepianos@earthlink.net > > >>----- Original Message ----- >>From: <mailto:hullfam5@yahoo.com>Bob Hull >>To: <mailto:pianotech@ptg.org>pianotech@ptg.org >>Sent: 4/29/2003 4:34:51 PM >>Subject: keyframe bedding >> >>Dear List, >>I'm working on a Steinway M regulation and on bedding the keyframe. (Not >>the same one I had a question on about a month ago.) I thought I had >>accomplished this already- but the knocking on the bass end has returned >>during the process of the other regulation steps. I'm wondering if when >>I regulated the balance rail studs it came back. I used the sliding paper >>method and felt good about the results. So, as I found this knocking I >>returned to the keybedding and I did some more sanding on the bottom of >>the front rail but no progress seems to be coming about - the bass end >>still knocks when you tap on it. Both ends of the frame knock when >>tapped, but the treble stops when you put the cheek block on, but the >>bass end still knocks. I measured the thickness of the front rail on >>both ends and the middle. Bass end is .836; middle of front rail is .881 >>and treble end is .850 or .860. I know the keybed is crowne! ! d up in >>the middle and the keyframe is reverse crowned. Here's my question: >>What would you think of painting a layer of epoxy on the bottom of the >>bass end of the rail to thicken it rather than sanding/thinning the whole >>rest of the rail until that knocking went away? (The knocking begins >>about 1 octave from the bass end.) >>Also, with this crowned/reverse crown between keyframe and keybed should >>the testing of the bedding be always done with cheek blocks screwed in? >>One other question to drown you with - do you reflect the crowned keybed >>in the key leveling? I have heard yes and no on this. >>Thanks. >>Bob Hull >> >> >>Do you Yahoo!? >><http://us.rd.yahoo.com/search/mailsig/*http://search.yahoo.com>The New >>Yahoo! Search - Faster. Easier. Bingo.
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