keyframe bedding

[Kevin E. Ramsey]

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David, and all, your method is quite a bit like mine. Rather than buy a =
Jaras tool, you can do the same thing without it.=20
    What you're looking for is the fact that when the balance rail =
contacts the keybed the keys will begin to raise. I take a business card =
and cut it so that it's just a little taller than the keybed-keytop =
distance. When you put it under the keytops, it will form a slight =
curve. Then, I put the balance rail bedding tool on the glide and, as =
you describe, push down on it. If it's not bedded you can see the card =
flex quite dramatically. Then you can turn the glide bolt in, and as =
soon as the glide bolt contacts, the card will start to straighten out. =
Work from the center out, when you're done, you can do the "lift and =
tap" final check.=20
    This get's you real close, real fast.=20

    Hey, a card's a lot cheaper than any other tool I know.=20
Kevin.
  ----- Original Message -----=20
  From: David Love=20
  To: pianotech@ptg.org=20
  Sent: Tuesday, April 29, 2003 5:25 PM
  Subject: RE: keyframe bedding


  On a Steinway the bedding should be done with the cheek blocks screwed =
down.  That may solve your problem.  If the block bears down to much and =
restricts the use of the una corda pedal you can shim the front of the =
cheek block with some card stock.  You may notice that the front of the =
blocks are already shimmed, many are.  A simple way to check the bedding =
is to press on the glide screws with your wrench and you will see the =
keys dip slightly if the glide is not bedded.  First raise all the =
glides so you get some movement with each one.  Then, starting from the =
middle working out, wedge your hand up underneath between the pinblock =
and the wrench which is resting on top of the glide bolt , and by =
cupping your hand you can flex the key bed downward.  You will see the =
keys dip slightly.  You can put a Jaras leveler on the white keys if you =
have one which will make it easier to see&nbs! p;movement.  When the =
movement stops go to the next one.  Go back through again to double =
check.  It's a lot faster than sliding paper around and it works just =
fine.  You should be able to bed the key frame in a few minutes.

  David Love
  davidlovepianos@earthlink.net


    ----- Original Message -----=20
    From: Bob Hull=20
    To: pianotech@ptg.org
    Sent: 4/29/2003 4:34:51 PM=20
    Subject: keyframe bedding


    Dear List,
    I'm working on a Steinway M regulation and on bedding the keyframe. =
(Not the same one I had a question on about a month ago.) I thought I =
had accomplished this already- but the knocking on the bass end has =
returned during the process of the other regulation steps.  I'm =
wondering if when I regulated the balance rail studs it came back. I =
used the sliding paper method and felt good about the results.  So, as I =
found this knocking I returned to the keybedding and I did some more =
sanding on the bottom of the front rail but no progress seems to be =
coming about - the bass end still knocks when you tap on it.  Both ends =
of the frame knock when tapped, but the treble stops when you put the =
cheek block on, but the bass end still knocks.  I measured the thickness =
of the front rail on both ends and the middle.  Bass end is .836; middle =
of front rail is .881 and treble end is .850 or .860.  I know the keybed =
is crowne! ! d up in the middle and the keyframe is reverse crowned.   =
Here's my question:
    What would you think of painting a layer of epoxy on the bottom of =
the bass end of the rail to thicken it rather than sanding/thinning the =
whole rest of the rail until that knocking went away? (The knocking =
begins about 1 octave from the bass end.)
    Also, with this crowned/reverse crown between keyframe and keybed =
should the testing of the bedding be always done with cheek blocks =
screwed in?
    One other question to drown you with - do you reflect the crowned =
keybed in the key leveling?  I have heard yes and no on this.
    Thanks.
    Bob Hull



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