tooling up for soundboard replacement

Carl Meyer cmpiano@comcast.net
Sat, 6 Dec 2003 19:04:29 -0800


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Re:tooling up for soundboard replacementI can't help myself.  Much as I =
hate to offend my  colleague on the other side of the aisle, (RPT) I  AS =
THE RESIDENT EL CHEAPO,
Let me say that I just can't resist  giving you the following info:

McMaster Carr lists=20

3/8x3 inch set screws $11.80 / 10
3/8/3.5 inch set screws $7.75/10  (what's going on here?)
3/8/4 inch set screw $2.39  EACH

Headless hanger bolts 3/8/4 inch $7.12 for 25

Not that I'm thrifty.  I'm just cheap.  Hanger bolts are available from =
good hardware stores.  They are adaptable for most jobs.  Just need to =
be cut off to the right length and slotted for screwdriver adjustment.   =
I've used them for adjustment of plate height after chipping with no =
problem. =20

The baldwin system has the following problem.  No adjustment after the =
fact.   All screws must be removed  and one screw dimension is the only =
variation possible.  I like my system.

Carl Meyer Ptg assoc
Santa Clara, Ca.


---- Original Message -----=20
  From: Overs Pianos=20
  To: Pianotech=20
  Sent: Saturday, December 06, 2003 1:48 PM
  Subject: Re:tooling up for soundboard replacement


    Hi list,
      Thanks for all the great tips,and pictures on the soundboard =
install.I got
    the plate out today,and will start taking out the board =
tomorrow.This will be
    the first board I have ever removed,and replaced.I have to get the =
board
    out,leaving the dowels in place,or so I am told.
    Best,
    Hazen Bananister


  Hazen,


  The sound board removal operation won't be easy if you leave the =
original dowels in place. We drill the dowels down to below the =
panel/inner rim joint before removing the board, and plug the holes in =
the inner rim prior to installing the new board.


  Furthermore, as Andrew Remillard mentioned in his post, a much better =
solution than using dowels again would be to re-install the plate using =
the Baldwin plate mounting system (which is by far the best system). We =
use this system for our own 225 piano, using 7/16" thread stock. It =
isn't easy finding machine bolts which are 150 mm long and threaded all =
the way to the head, so we get around the problem by using Booker rod =
(threaded lengths of rod which are supplied in lengths of 36" or 1 =
metre). We fit dome nuts to 150 mm cut lengths of rod to form the 'bolt' =
assembly that we require, securing the dome nut with Loctite 680 (which =
is the strongest grade). The washers under our bolts are custom turned =
from free machining brass which is chrome plated (the home page image on =
our website shows the dome nuts and washers fitted to piano no. 3 - =
click on the small image to see a full screen version). The hole in the =
plate, visible at the left edge of the image, is for hexagon wrench =
access to the cap screw screw underneath the plate (which is fitted into =
the inner rim). The cap screw is for setting the plate height, before =
fitting the perimeter bolts. For those who are interested in seeing the =
enlarged image directly, go to;


  http://overspianos.com.au/bkcl.html     (image size 136K)


  When fitting the plate to the piano, we run a thread into the rim to =
full depth to 'cut a thread' into the inner rim before fitting the =
dome-nut bolts, so that we don't damage the finish on the chromed dome =
nut with excessive torque during installation.


  The only further qualification I'd like to add Hazen is that if the =
piano you are rebuilding is owned by a client, get their permission for =
incorporating any changes which are not original. Steinway can get =
pretty nasty when it comes to attacking technicians for making changes =
to their original designs.


  They've threatened us in the past on two occasions.


  Getting back to your sound board removal task, it might also help if =
you cut away (using a chisel) the panel to outer rim glue joint before =
trying to knock out the board. Glue joints aren't very strong in tension =
but in sheer they are amazing. The board should practically fall out =
once you get rid of the joint between the outer rim and panel and the =
dowels.


  I prefer to get the sound board out intact, because it makes a good =
template for cutting out the new panel, and we also use it (after =
removing the original bridges and ribs) as a jig for locating the new =
ribs on the vacuum press.


  Best,
  Ron O.
--=20
OVERS PIANOS - SYDNEY
     Grand Piano Manufacturers
  _______________________

  Web http://overspianos.com.au
  mailto:info@overspianos.com.au
  _______________________
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