The Right Tool for the Right Job Revisited

[Farrell]

Actually, if you just use an old chisel on the wire between the agraffe and the tuning pin, the coil doesn't have to unravel (lost energy) and you get much better distance on the bass strings (be sure to remove any stringing braid). We set up a target on one wall and cut the bass strings of the piano about 30+ feet away at the other end of the shop. An upright with the bottom board removed works best! Careful with A0 and its neighbors - you've got a lot of mass moving through the air! And of course, those of us that install vertical hitches on the bass, know we will be cussed at by whom ever destrings our pianos years from now!

Terry Farrell
  
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Phil Bondi" <phil@philbondi.com>
To: <davidlovepianos@earthlink.net>; "'Pianotech'" <pianotech@ptg.org>
Sent: Sunday, July 27, 2003 2:06 PM
Subject: RE: The Right Tool for the Right Job Revisited


> David..if I may:
> 
> > I take the tension down
> 
> ..a quarter turn..if that.
> 
> >use a becket breaker to shear off 
> > the becket, and then back the pins out through the coil.  Cut 
> > the wire at the agraffes to remove the tenor and bass and 
> > slip the treble wire through the capo bar. 
> > It goes pretty quickly with not popping wire or stress on the 
> > wrists.  
> > 
> This is my method with one exception:
> 
> I like padding down the tail end of the case with 1.5" pipe insulation
> along the top and moving blankets on the inside..and NOT let the tension
> down on the bass strings...use the becket breaker with full tension on
> the bass wire and watch them fly.
> 
> ..it's fun!
> 
> Phil Bondi(FL)
> phil@philbondi.com
> 
> 
> 
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