Orange shellac need help

bases-loaded@juno.com bases-loaded@juno.com
Sun, 8 Jun 2003 07:44:30 -0400


Hi Ric -

It has been years since I brushed shellac, as I always spray it now, but
there are a few things that stick in my mind.  As you already know,
brushing shellac is tricky due to its rapid drying time, and large
surfaces only make it trickier.  First, a high quality brush is a must,
with very fine bristles to help avoid brush marks.  Thinning your 3 lb
cut down to a 2 lb cut would also help immensely.  You have to use long
fast strokes when brushing this stuff, so you gotta have your 'game face'
on when you are ready to begin ;-).  Avoid heavy applications.  If you
still are having problems with application after thinning it down, you
should consider adding a retarder to the shellac, which will allow you to
keep a wet edge much longer, and lets you work at a more leisurely pace. 
The retarders that are used for nitrocellulose lacquer are compatible
with shellac.  The down side, of course, is that it takes longer to dry
for subsequent re-coating.

Regarding the splotchiness, are you sure that's not just temporary due to
the uneven porosity of the oak?  Will it not even out after the third or
so coat?  You have the benefit of seeing it, but it was worth mentioning.
 If you feel you need to do some leveling because of severe unevenness,
use a stearated paper to minimize loading of the paper.  Alternatively,
you could just remove the whole mess with a rag soaked in alcohol and
start over.  This process would also serve to leave the pores filled
rather evenly with the thinned down shellac, possibly allowing for more
even absorption in subsequent coats.

Hope this helps some...

Mark Potter
bases-loaded@juno.com
  


On Sat, 7 Jun 2003 22:25:59 -0500 "Richard Moody"
<remoody@midstatesd.net> writes:
> I am refinishing a solid oak table top about the size of a large
> upright bottom panel or "kick board" as it is sometimes called on
> the old " high back pianos".
> 
> Its out of the can 3lb cut.  It is splotchy because of the
> overlaps and it dries too fast to brush out the whole top.   Is
> there a way to get rid of the splotchy areas by brushing with
> denatured alcohol?  Or is sanding better?  It is hard to tell if
> it will be splotchy when applying because of the different rates
> of drying.
> 
> Why is it so hard for me to get a table top uniform when they used
> to do large   oak floors and those look uniform?
> 
> Thanks
>     Richard Moody
> 
> 
> 
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