Restringing

[Farrell]

I've looped strings before and they have worked fine. I looped one on a restringing job the other day and the darn thing is just unravelling - I think I made it the same as always. What might I be doing wrong?

Terry Farrell
  
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Dave Bunch" <pdtek@mchsi.com>
To: "Pianotech" <pianotech@ptg.org>
Sent: Monday, June 23, 2003 7:36 PM
Subject: Re: Restringing


As far as loop makers go, I would warn someone new to this to avoid the loop makers with the crank commonly seen in the catalogs. They are good for nothing but breaking wire. With just a little practice, one can make a first rate loop by hand using nothing more than a nail in a vise. This will work fine for the 99% of pianos that have just one or two looped strings.

Dave Bunch
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Alan 
  To: 'Pianotech' 
  Sent: Monday, June 23, 2003 11:28 AM
  Subject: RE: Restringing


  Yes .

   

  Not a complete treatise, but a few thoughts.

   

  First time, it will take you close to three 8-days.

  An experienced person can do it in about two days.

  I don't think it's fair for people to pay for my "learning curves," so I would bill the job based on, say, 18 hours.

  Take the job. Learn and earn.

   

  Critical things to have, purchase, or make-your-own .

   

  1.       A pinblock jack

  2.       Coil maker

  3.       2½ lb sledge hammer (for fine tuning and watch repair)

  4.       Real wire cutters, not pin nippers or light duty electrical "dikes"

  5.       Heavy gloves or, better yet, glass-handler's gloves

  6.       Eye protection!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Many jobs call for eye protection: Restringing SCREAMS for it. Wear industrial eye protection, the kind that protects from the sides, too!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

  7.       Band-Aids (Don't make your own.)

   

  Helpful things to have .

   

  1.       A ½" drive variable speed electric drill with "pin removing bit" (see archives). ¼" drill will not do, doesn't have enough torque, especially at slower speeds and you don't want to spin the pins so fast that you set the piano on fire or, more likely, damage the holes.

  2.       New set of pin collars (depending). New hitch pin punchings, felts, braid, etc. (depending)

  3.       Tuning pin crank

  4.       Loop maker

   

  Look up in the archives or read Reblitz, etc., about measuring strings, marking where string sizes change, etc.

   

  Examine the piano carefully before you start: 

  1.       Make sure the legs are secure and nothing is wobbly. 999/1000 times this is no problem. The 1/1000th time, a disaster can ensue.

  2.       Pull the lid hinge pins with the lid closed. Unless it is a very small piano, get the owner or someone to help you lift off the lid and put it in a safe place.

  3.       Examine the pinblock and bridges very carefully. Discuss problems with owner. NOW is the time to make any repairs.

  4.       Note any problems or anticipated problems. Write them down. Have the owner look at them with you and sign the paper acknowledging the problems. Again 1/1000, but you don't want any arguments later. I would take a torque wrench and measure each pin-or at least a good sampling-as I made the first tension reduction turns of the pin to make sure you spot any "patterns" suggesting block damage or any pin holes that might need a little epoxy, etc. Easier to do it now than to have to remove pins later.

   

  Have fun. 

   

  Alan R. Barnard

  Salem, MO

  -----Original Message-----
  From: pianotech-bounces@ptg.org [mailto:pianotech-bounces@ptg.org] On Behalf Of Richard Strang
  Sent: Monday, June 23, 2003 10:14 AM
  To: pianotech (E-mail)
  Subject: Restringing

   

  Hello, all,

      Piano restringing has always been a little out of my line of work, as I do not have a shop. However, I have a good customer that is requesting me to restring his grand on site, and I'm debating on whether I should accept the job or not. Any advice?

   

  Richard



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